In Bordeaux, non-alcoholic wines are not experiencing the crisis. Having achieved the production objectives planned after three years in 12 months, the cooperative having invested in the first dealcoholization unit hopes to transform the trial into lasting success.
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inaugurated in January 2024 in Sauveterre-de-Guyenne, the first industrial dealcoholization unit in the Bordeaux vineyard produced in its first year 17,000 hectoliters of totally or partially dealcoholized wines (no and low-alcohol) both for the own production of the cooperative union which hosts it (2/3 of the volumes) and in service provision (1/3). A review “beyond our expectations” summarizes Philippe Cazaux, the general director of Bordeaux Families (300 members for 5,000 ha of vines in Entre-deux-Mers), pointing out that he “planned a three-year workload plan. We got there in the first year. The breakeven point of 80% activity is reached. » This represents 50 to 60% of the production capacity of the industrial tool, making it possible to envisage new developments. “We are on a good pace. Everything will now depend on the markets. We will see more clearly in a year, to know if this is maintained” cautiously sketches Philippe Cazaux.
If the no-low market seems to be growing strongly (driven by changes in consumption, but also in taxes such as English taxes depending on the alcoholic degree), Bordeaux Families is currently benefiting from the small number of players present today in France ( the dealcoholization units located in Germany, Belgium, Spain, etc.). While Vivadour and Moderato invest in a Chai Sobre (in Gers), in Gironde “we arrived well in time to meet the need” notes Philippe Cazaux, who notes that“in 2021, the challenge we took on seemed crazy” with its investment of 2.5 million euros (including 15% subsidies). Between the next European authorization of dealcoholization in the organic specifications and the request to go down to 6°.alc in IGP Atlantique to open up to other times of consumption, the unit should quickly see new openings avenues for development underlines the director of Bordeaux Families.
Dry January
Making wine news, dealcoholized wine has yet to transform the test by going from strong growth to significant market shares. With a tool sized to treat 30,000 hl, dealcoholization could represent 15 to 20% of the cooperative union’s production (220,000 hl). Enough to continue its diversification, the success of Bordeaux crémants allowing it to reduce the crisis which is strongly affecting the red Bordeaux vineyards. Where alcohol-free wine is currently a trivial subject with the month of sobriety Dry January… A subject taken with pragmatism by Philippe Cazaux: “We are wine producers and it doesn’t make us happy, but whether we like it or not, it won’t change things. You might as well take advantage of this moment by offering other wine-based products. Dry January puts alcohol-free wines in the spotlight, as a producer of no-low it’s a good thing. This is part of wine’s effort to move towards other moments of consumption. Otherwise, we leave room for other drinks. »
