Paris 12th: the new Trou Gascon has arrived! | Gilles Pudlowski's blog

The Gascon Hole? It was, for half a century, the house of Alain Dutournier, the first and last, after the end of Carré des Feuillants, an embassy of the South, where Landes ham, foie gras, confit and cassoulet were offered. , plus a hell of a collection of South West wines and Armagnacs. Bought and renovated by Grégory Reibenberg, boss of Belle Equipe in the 11th, where he was one of the victims of the terrorist attack of November 13, 2015 and who already has five Parisian addresses, the place, revamped with all its charm, bistro style modern, with its large counter decorated with Moroccan ceramics, its tables or tablecloths, or in raw wood (host table style) or in marble, has nothing lost its charm or its gourmet ambitions.

At the helm of the kitchen we discover the talent and ideas of the young Sarah Chougnet-Strudel, who dropped out of law and philosophy studies to devote herself to cooking. She created Regain in Marseille after having worked in Paris at the Lancaster, the Astrance and the George V, in Honfleur at the Saquana of Alexandre Bourdas, where she was a pastry chef, in Bordeaux at the Gabriel, in Valence at Anne-Sophie Pic, finally in London at the Connaught with Hélène Darroze and at the Greenhouse. In short, quite a journey which indicates that this multi-talented gifted woman knows music.

It is relayed in the room by the mischievous Jean-Félix Frichot, associate of Grégory, who praises the unusual wines with a verve worthy of a French actor and livens up the room with constant good humor. The weekday lunch menu at €29 is a bargain and the menu reveals exquisite dishes, expertly seasoned, nicely spiced, all exciting. We love its thinly sliced ​​beef tongue placed on a bed of placquered birdsauce gribiche and twisted with a hint of “curd” bergamot or its diving scallops with radis daikon, black sesame paste, plus pomelo and its vinaigrette in Latin style habanero.

Main dishes, such as cabbage stuffed with spelled,mushrooms of Paris, crème with Fourme d'Ambert and coffee, which will delight vegetarians without disappointing others, or the vol au vent with cuttlefish, with thisourge butternut, bisque with saffron and Espelette pepper, plus Treviso chicory (or raddicchio) candied kombu and lime rossa and the dauphine potatoes revisited with chorseradish cream, indicate the true talent of sweet Sarah for diverting bourgeois cuisine from its natural course, but without betraying it.

The desserts aim for the same good tempo and flirt with the very high level. Thus, the tagette iced parfait with its acrunchy rlettes, caramel and chili like the schocolate soufflé, praliné and Fontainebleau with sweet clover which make delicacies, fine, light, digestible, concise, of very high quality. On this, Jean-Félix proposes, side vins, to throw yourself into the unknown without a net with exquisite offerings by the glass at bargain prices. Thus, the very fresh “chardo muscaté” (a chardonnay with an air of Alsatian muscat) “at the foot of the wall” from the Arkose paths or the delicious gamaret “The Flight of the Black Kite” from the Prapin estate on the Lyon slopes. In short, a brand new table that seduces beyond measure!

Au Trou Gascon

40 rue Taine
Paris 12e
Such. 01 43 44 34 26
Menus : 24 (lunch, formula, week), 29 (lunch, week) €
Carte : 70 €
Schedules : 12h30-15h30, 19h30-22h
Weekly closing. : Monday, Sunday
Nearby metro(s): Daumesnil
Site: autrougasconparis.fr