A group of commercial climbers are planning an ascent of Everest in just a week using an innovative method using xenon gas. This technique, still little known, makes it possible to stimulate the natural production of EPO (erythropoietin), a hormone which increases the number of red blood cells and improves acclimatization without going through the traditional steps. After xenon therapy in a clinic in Kathmandu, climbers will go directly to base camp to begin a rapid ascent in three days, accompanied by Sherpas and with oxygen support.
According to Lukas FurtenbachAustrian guide and promoter of this method, the main objective is to improve the safety of expeditions. He says reducing the time spent at high altitude limits the risk of serious illnesses such as pulmonary and brain edema. However, this approach is not unanimous. Some members of the mountaineering community denounce a form of doping and consider that this practice goes against the traditional spirit of mountaineering, which values effort, patience and handling the unexpected.
The cost of these expeditions is also a source of debate. Billed at a whopping $154,000 per person, this method is aimed at a wealthy clientele willing to pay to circumvent the traditional challenges of Everest. A xenon therapy session alone costs $5,000. Although Furtenbach defends this innovation, emphasizing its safe use in the medical field for 40 years, the World Anti-Doping Agency (WADA) considers xenon a banned substance due to its effects on physical performance.
Opinions remain divided in the mountaineering community. Some guides, like Adrian Ballingerbelieve that mountain climbing should respect the same anti-doping standards as other endurance sports. Others, like Furtenbach, see these methods as a natural evolution of commercial expeditions, where speed and safety take precedence over adventure.
This controversy raises a larger question: is commercial mountaineering sacrificing experience and exploration in favor of records and summits reached at any cost? The use of xenon may well become a symbol of this transformation, but its future will depend on its acceptance by the community and its impact on the safety of climbers.
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