Should we admit it? When exploring the island of Martinique, we expected to find postcard landscapes and beaches, not a pearl of contemporary art. Our prejudices were shattered after visiting Habitation Clément. Habitation is the name given on the island to these agricultural estates which include plantations, industrial buildings, a house and its outbuildings.
Formerly called Domaine de l'Acajou, Habitation Clément is located in the commune of François, approximately 25 kilometers from Fort-de-France, on the east coast of Martinique. It is one of the most prestigious Creole houses in the Antilles, perfectly restored. It welcomes nearly 200,000 visitors each year.
Founded in the 18th century to cultivate cane and make sugar, the estate was purchased by Doctor Homere Clément in 1887. He was one of the first black men to be able to afford such a property to produce sugar and then sugar. rum.
The distillery is no longer in operation, but it has been transformed into a museum to explain to the many visitors the entire process of making rum after harvesting the sugar cane in the surrounding fields. We discover these very old machines which once worked using a steam system. On the walls, beautiful black and white photos of the workers who carried out difficult work here.
At the top of a small hill, the main house, magnificently restored, with its furniture and crockery, shows the way the owners once lived. It has been classified as a Historic Monument since 1996. Multiple photos displayed on the walls testify that illustrious visitors have come here one after the other.
On March 15, 1991, after the Gulf War, François Mitterrand and George Bush even met there to talk about the organization of peace in the Middle East. In the Treasurer's box, an astonishing documentary reveals behind the scenes of this mini-summit which attracted numerous journalists and impressive security forces.
Labeled a Remarkable Garden, the park is planted with nearly 300 endemic or imported species. We walk there to the sound of birds, crickets and frogs. The cursed fig tree is particularly spectacular with its large network of aerial roots. Around the pond, more or less monumental sculptures sometimes emerge from the lush vegetation.
A patinated bronze mask by Catherine Ikam and Louis Fléri has the appearance of a traditional sculpture, but it was created virtually. On the other bank, we see the work of another great name in contemporary art, Bernar Venet. Not far away is also one of the famous spaghetti benches by Pablo Reinoso, an Argentinian artist based in France. This bench, extended on each side by long and voluptuous metal vines, is a tribute to the intelligence of plants which know how to adapt to continue to grow.
One of the most striking works, dated 2011, is entitled Let's all move forward together. Created by Luz Severino, an artist born in the neighboring Dominican Republic, it is a set of oxidized metal sculptures in human forms.
This group, which emerges like an army between two coconut trees, recalls another sculpture by this Caribbean artist installed near the La Mauny distillery to pay homage to the slave revolt in Martinique which led to the definitive abolition of slavery on the island. island in 1848. Since 2012, the collection of the sculpture park has continued to grow, giving pride of place to Caribbean art.
Another surprising place to discover on the estate: its very modern contemporary art foundation. This bright building, with free access, is currently hosting an explosive exhibition dedicated to Roberto Fabelo: Infinite Round. This title refers to the infinite round of life. Three large rooms give an overview of his work over more than fifteen years with large canvases, installations and drawings.
His works can challenge, even shock. They also make you smile. Inspired by surrealism and expressionism, Fabelo useshas fantasy as an escape from reality and uses it to build an alternative world where everything becomes possible thanks to imagination. Go down the staircase populated by giant insects with human heads. It leads to the basement invaded by a herd of rhinoceroses which is reminiscent of Eugène Ionesco's play. Obviously, the one who leads the troop is not a gift…
In a video published on the Clément Foundation website, the Cuban artist explains that these animals represent both strength and tenderness. According to him, the main theme of his work is the action of man and its consequences on food. On his canvases, he paints large colorful bowls.
In the center of the third room, an impressive bronze and steel saucepan bears the infinite circle of men armed with their forks. An exhibition at enjoy without moderation, unlike the rum offered to your taste buds at the end of the visit.
The Habitation Clément area is open all year round, from 9 a.m. to 6:30 p.m.
Prices: from 11 euros for adults booking online, 13 euros on site.
On display until January 15, 2025, the exhibition “Ronda Infinita” by Roberto Fabelo.
