THE SONG OF THE STONES – These mythical Scandinavian navigators have, for centuries, fired the popular imagination. Often reduced to the image of bloodthirsty warriors, the reality of their existence, much more nuanced and rich, is discovered in the south-east of Sweden.
Norway or Denmark are often referred to when trying to put these characters into a geographical context. However, the Vikings left a deep mark on the Swedish territory and played a major role in founding trade routes from Europe to Asia. Why did they disappear almost as suddenly as they appeared, more than two centuries after the attack on the monastery of Lindisfarne, in the north of what is now England, on June 8, 793? The question contributes to maintaining a fascination for these men of the North, who were at once shrewd traders, seasoned explorers and navigators, but not necessarily fierce warriors as we tend to imagine. One thousand two hundred and thirty years later, from mysterious rune stones to impressive museum ships, Sweden is full of treasures telling the fascinating past of the Vikings who, contrary to the stereotype born in the 19th century, never wore horned helmets.
But the Valkyries of the Nordic tales, dear to Wagner, are not so imaginary as that. The Lagherta of the series Vikings is perhaps the one that lies in a grave in the town of Birka, on the island of Björkö, in the central east of the country, a two-hour ferry ride from Stockholm. The grave contains numerous weapons and the skeletons of two horses, indicating that the person buried there was of high rank. The warrior, who lived between 850 and 950, must have been in her thirties when she died. At the time, Birka was a large port where some 1,000 people lived. Considered the most important in the archipelago, it linked the Viking lands to those of the Slavs of Novgorod, to those of the Byzantines of Constantinople and to the Abbasid caliphate (located in present-day Iraq). Listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1993, the sites of Birka and Hovgården, on the neighbouring island of Adelsö, form an archaeological ensemble which illustrates the complex trading networks of the Vikings and their influence on the history of Scandinavia.
Stockholm, an essential starting point
Photos presse Visit Sweden
Back in the Swedish capital, head to the island of Djurgården, home to the Vasa Museum, dedicated to the ship of the same name. Remarkably preserved, this boat is a masterpiece of naval art, testifying to Viking grandeur. A few steps away, you won’t want to miss Vikingaliv. The only museum in Sweden dedicated exclusively to this people, it attracts a wide and multi-generational audience. The idea is not to compete with the historical museum in Stockholm, but to offer a more fun alternative with a flagship attraction: the saga of Ragnfrid. A journey of about ten minutes aboard a train where you are projected into the heart of a Viking epic rich in adventures.
Archaeological remains enthusiasts will head to Uppsala, an ancient religious city located an hour north of the capital. Old Uppsala (Gamla Uppsala) is home to an impressive 6th-century necropolis and a museum that tells the legend of the kings of the kingdom of Svea, buried in three large tumuli. A few kilometers away, a stroll in the city center among the granite runes will allow you to decipher the spiritual heritage of these “men of the North”. Sweden has between 1,700 and 2,500 of them, the journey has only just begun.
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