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in the kitchens of the Lion d’or

It's noon. The Lion d'or brigade has just finished eating and is returning to the kitchen of the Michelin-starred restaurant, which overlooks the garden. Everything is calm. On this Sunday, December 22, 2024, the service promises to be smooth – around ten seats. As a sweet rehearsal for the festive Christmas meals this Tuesday, December 24 in the evening and tomorrow at noon.

“Where is the mandolin?” »asks chef Didier Clément, who is preparing to prepare soufflé potatoes. Usually, when noon strikes, he has already been in the kitchen for a long time. In the solitude of the early hours of the morning, he kneads the dough which will turn into bread which, in the next room, one of the four members of the room service team is cutting before the arrival of the first customers .

“The Christmas menu? I’ve been thinking about it since the fall”

While the mandolin does its job and the potato slices pile up little by little, a aroma like no other escapes from a deep plate. Placed in front, it is filled with fresh black truffles from Maison Pébeyre, a black diamond reference located in the heart of the truffle growing area, in Cahors. “Friends of forty years. Pierre-Jean Pébeyre succeeded in synthesizing a truffle oil from the forty molecules which constitute the perfume” of the famous mushroom, underlines Didier Clément, inexhaustible about the history of his Quercy supplier.

Part of the Lion d’or kitchen brigade hard at work.
© Photo NR, Pierre Calmeilles

Behind Didier Clément, a Molteni stove, a brand found at the heart of some of the most renowned restaurants in the world. One side is dedicated to fish, the other to meat. Over the course of this holiday season, under the leadership of the chef of the Lion d'or, some obscure pheasant chickens will also be preparing – “A hen with harmonious conformation, not dry at all”underlines the chef – or pike. “We highlight local pond fishing by calling on Thomas Doyon, fish farmer in Romorantin”continues Didier Clément.

Didier Clément, in the middle of preparing potatoes, inexhaustible on quality products such as caviar from Sologne or truffle from Pébeyre.
© Photo NR Pierre Calmeilles

Customers from all over the world

There are seven of them in the kitchens of the Lion d'or. And obviously winter products work. “We are in the good scallop season. We prepare them grilled, with elderberry, with pickles »describes Didier Clément. Also on the menu, a Regency vol-au-vent, garnished with truffles and foie gras, accompanied by forgotten vegetables. On the dessert side, the period is logically à la log, but revisited through the know-how of the Lion d'or. It will take the form of a chocolate sorbet made from fine wines and a black sesame tile.

“The Christmas menu? I’ve been thinking about it since the fall”concludes Didier Clément. There should also be blue lobster with coraline sauce and lentil chutney. For these holidays, his restaurant welcomes customers from all over the world, but also from Romorantin. Today, on December 24, they are mostly couples. December 25 at noon, time for larger families. Whether they come from Australia or Sologne, some are regulars at Christmas at the Lion d'or. They even come with gifts for the Clément family and their team.

The Clément family around the leader of the Lion d'or, Didier Clément.
© Photo NR, Pierre Calmeilles

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