She is on everyone’s lips, on all channels, on all social networks, she even inspires artists. Those who have not yet tasted it promise to do so soon, those who have tasted it are divided between the fans, the most numerous – who rave about its taste, its richness, its softness – and the disappointed ones who judge it to be undercooked and heavy. On weekends, she is almost a victim of her success with a queue that gets longer, sometimes leading to a shorter cooking time – hence the essential criticism that will be leveled at her. This must of the Mulhouse Christmas market is of course the “Mulhouse style” waffle, brought out of oblivion for the 800th anniversary of the city. Only one stand sells this historic delicacy: that of Christophe Griessmann and Hervé Moulin, who revisited the 1811 recipe by Marguerite Spoerlin and had a special mold made.
Francine Wunenberger: “There is no milk in waffle batter, it’s not pancake batter! »
Very good, but let’s not forget that Mulhouse did not wait for the so-called “Mulhouse” waffle to be rediscovered to discover the waffle. “We’ve been selling waffles at the Christmas market for almost thirty-five years! », recalls Francine Wunenberger (Sucre-cannelle stand), who is not impressed by the little news and is keen to put the waffle makers right side up: “The waffle comes from Belgium and it’s a fairground recipe” , she asks. She has her grandmother’s recipe: flour, eggs, sugar, yeast (for the Brussels waffle but not for the so-called Liège waffle), and… water.
“There is no milk in waffle batter, it’s not pancake batter,” she assures in a tone that does not tolerate contradiction. In Marcel Wettel’s chalet, we agree: no milk (sacrilege?), no butter either… At his house, only the “Liège” waffle, with more brioche, contains milk. No more milk At Ringo where, over butter, we even prefer margarine: “It’s less greasy, our waffles don’t ooze! »
These fairgrounds, sellers of waffles for decades, are unanimous on another point: competition from the new star, alluring in its wheel and star motif, does not affect their activity. “We are sometimes asked for the Mulhouse waffle, so we send people there, but we sell as much as usual,” says Marcel, who continues, fair play: “I think the Mulhouse waffle, It’s a good advertisement for everyone, people want waffles! And we have elderly people who prefer ours, well cooked, lighter. »
“Spanish tourists have not heard of the Mulhouse waffle and our regulars tell us that our waffles are excellent and they come back! », says Francine. In all of them, the sugar waffle costs €3 (the same price as the star), up to €5 with richer toppings. And for everyone, there is no question of giving in to fashion from the past. They happily leave the Mulhouse waffle to their (re)creators.
Serge Imbéry: “It’s my first year in the waffle business and I didn’t waffle myself”
Place de la Concorde, at the new traders’ market in the Heart of Mulhouse, the Chalet Sucre (created by three brands, Les Belles Gules, Maison Cendre and Le Temps d’une pause) sells waffles with icing sugar (€3.5) , with chocolate-hazelnut (€4), with chestnut cream (€4.5). When asked to reveal the recipe, Serge Imbéry (Maison Cendre) plays it transparent. “Our waffles come from Brussels, they arrive frozen and they are very good. » The supplier is that of the Auberge du zoo, the waffles from the Place de la Concorde are therefore the same as those that you can taste in the aisles of the zoo. And yes, they sell, “even better than pancakes”. “It’s my first year in waffles and you can say that I didn’t waffle myself,” smiles this clothing seller, who happily directs customers looking for “Mulhouse waffles” towards Place de la Réunion.
“We’re here to spread the word and this waffle is a really good advert for Mulhouse,” he gets excited. Moreover, for next year, he has not ruled out succumbing to the new specialty: “We will make a mold with a heart and the Mulhouse wheel inside! »
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