Heritage grape varieties, a promise of the future for Cévennes viticulture

To the north, it was Lozère… But, since July 30, it is also part of the new territory of the Cévennes Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) appellation.
Listed in the Official Journal since July 30, 45 municipalities in the south of Lozère are now authorized to vinify and produce a wine under the IGP designation. A result obtained after five years of work carried out in conjunction with the National Institute of Origin and Quality (INAO) from which these winegrowers will benefit, from this 2024 vintage.

Supported by the Carasso foundation, an observatory of heritage grape varieties

Thus opening up a wide spectrum of co-evolution to the Cévennes wine world. For Jean-François Goulabert, Domaine du Chamounet, in Altier, ” it is an awareness that these lands are not only good for cows and that we can also make quality wines there. I hope that this can also free up land… And the collective effect, within the union, will allow us to be stronger in the struggle. “

It is indisputable to raise the vines to altitude

For Christian Vigne, former president of the appellation, tireless promoter of this evolution, “The demand has been coming from Lozerian winegrowers for a long time. This will make it possible to work towards the recognition of their cultivation practices, but also for the IGP to study and highlight heritage and prohibited grape varieties, which have less need treatments. With climate change and the difficulties encountered in Piedmont, everyone feels that the future is with heritage grape varieties and that it is indisputable to increase. the vineyard at altitude.”
While in the Languedoc plain, uprooting is inevitable for dozens of winegrowers, around 15,000 hectares for Gard, Hérault, Aude and the Pyrénées-Orientales, the Cévenols of Piedmont are experiencing a contrasting situation.
After a heatwave in 2023 and excess water this year, leading to outbreaks of mildew, heritage or banned grape varieties, due to their quality of resistance to diseases and frost as well as their water saving, are regaining interest.
Supported by the Daniel and Nina Carasso Foundation, an observatory of heritage grape varieties, led by Jérôme Villaret, project manager, is being formed and working to promote these champions. ” The work on the extension which was carried out on the historical geographical area which we find on the maps, from Mont Lozère in the north to the Gorges du Tarn, in the west, has made it possible to discover numerous grape varieties forgotten by the modern viticulture “explains Jérôme Villaret. Including certain grape varieties that the State had banned in 1934

because they were too productive, but which the Cévenols, aware of the hardness of the work after having adapted them to the terroir by working them in the form of trellises, did not uproot them.

Offer this portfolio of grape varieties to winegrowers in order to adapt to the terroir and climate.“They defied the law”
continues Jérôme Villaret. A salutary insubordination while today, faced with climate change, these grape varieties reveal surprising dispositions. While scientific studies will support their resistance to phylloxera, as well as to downy mildew or powdery mildew, their recognition on the taste level forms the second movement of recognition. With organoleptic profiles, confusing for certain palates, the expectations of new consumers, lovers of lightness and aromatics, however open up perspectives. “We have been so conditioned by the Grenache, Syrah and other grape varieties that it requires adaptation,specifies Gilbert Bischeri, winegrower of prohibited and unauthorized grape varieties, based in Aujac.
But there is a wait among young people and old alike who are rediscovering flavors. Then, the strong point is that they do not need treatment and that this allows mountain agriculture to develop.” “In the minds of oenologists, these are wines that are not good,continues Jérôme Villaret.
But in truth, they are sometimes poorly vinified or lack maturity, but we can make very beautiful things. The goal of the conservatory is to offer this portfolio of grape varieties to winegrowers in order to adapt to the terroir and climate.”