Lanvin unveils its new face on the last day of Men's Week

Paris Men's Fashion Week ended on Sunday with the long-awaited Lanvin show. The opportunity to unveil the first collection of its new artistic director Peter Copping, designed for fall-winter 2024/25. Alongside the label owned by the Chinese giant Lanvin Group (formerly Fosun Fashion Group) and other big names like Jacquemus and Sacai, a multitude of other brands stood out on Sunday in the capital, like the Japanese houses Doublet and Taakk and South Korean Wooyoungmi.

For its big return to the Parisian catwalks after two years of absence, Lanvin chose the Pavillon Gabriel at the foot of the Champs-Elysées, revealing at the same time the new face of its man, but also and above all of its wife. It is not always easy to relaunch a historic brand by finding the right balance between heritage and present times. Peter Copping tried it, cautiously, starting with an essential wardrobe, made up of the wardrobe essentials. Easy to combine with each other, it offers them in studied proportions and constructions, and comes in a dark palette.

For men, he thought of a classic wardrobe with pieces cut from beautiful fabrics with rigorous lines, from herringbone or micro-check tweed coats to ocher-colored pea coats, without forgetting the Prince of Wales jackets, monochrome suits and a bit of denim. The silhouette is intended to be simple and practical. No shirts, but turtleneck sweaters, funnel-neck blouses or crinkled silk t-shirts. The pants are comfortable, sometimes tightened at the ankles, sometimes drawn at the waist. Pointed shoes are worn barefoot. The Lanvin man sometimes dares to dare, for example with a leopard coat.

The woman oscillates between practicality and glamour, favoring a tapered line. Her wardrobe also includes a beautiful navy peacoat with chocolate buttons, long coats made from thick gray, black or dark blue woolen cloth, belted low at the waist, as well as knitted dresses, leather overcoats, pant skirts. draped, sinuous dresses slit on the side. In the evening, she appears in long tulle and lace dresses, in black velvet sheaths, in draped satin outfits, others covered in crystals or constructed from silk strips, while flowers and retro patterns 1920s are present in certain outfits.

“This is a key moment of transition, which marks the great return of the oldest Parisian fashion house after two years of repositioning,” delegated general manager Siddhartha Shukla tells us. “The fact of showing on the eve of Haute Couture Week is important, because it demonstrates our inevitably French sophistication. With this collection, we are very, very faithful to the spirit of this house and to Jeanne Lanvin,” slips -he.

See the parade

A little earlier in the day, several Asian designers also presented their new men's wardrobe, with a pronounced return to more formal elegance. This was the case, in particular, for Wooyoungmi with, at the opening of her show, a series of very chic costumes. The silhouette is tightened at the waist while flowers made in the same fabric of the garment (suit or shirt) are placed on a shoulder, on a wrist or on a pocket. The same hourglass shape applies to impeccable leather or wool coats.

For next winter, Madame Woo, that is to say Woo Young Mi, the founder of the South Korean house, who took over artistic direction in March 2020 after passing the baton to her daughter, is injecting this formal wardrobe elements loungewear and sportsmen. Thus, warm grandfather leggings are worn under the rolled-up short pants, from which they protrude above the ankles and waist.

Padded nylon overtrousers also zip over the pants as needed. Thick jackets and blousons, also quilted, are cut from beautiful silks with floral prints. Men and women protect themselves in particular with large, colorful fur collars that they can add to the wide lapels of their coats and with woolen mittens held by a cord.

See the parade

Change of register at Doublet with a very punchy collection. The label of Masayuki Ino, designer with caustic humor and winner of the LVMH Prize in 2018, summons lightning, thunderclaps and police sirens to launch his bad boys on the catwalk under a ballet of frenetic spots.

With their spray paint in hand, these gentlemen want to fight it out. Chains, carabiners and other trinkets rattle on their clothes, while their shoes bristle with rubber spikes. Sometimes the toe of their shoe opens and gapes as if it were unstitched. A snake literally comes out of the raised collar of a long black raincoat à la Dracula. A shark's mouth opens furiously on the back of a fur-lined jacket.

This underground universe driven by a techno soundtrack is tempered by a breath of childish softness with pink plush jackets printed with friendly animals, a palette of mauve, mint green and other sugared almond shades, as well as a hot water bottle bag. Among the other accessories, which are sure to be a great success, these wool gloves encrusted with crystal rings and pearl bracelets.

At Taakk, place an intriguing collection, which seems to want to play with tactile sensations and visual effects, like so many reminiscences of the past. Suede jacket or fleece sweater? And this other one, is it nylon or leather? Satin or technical fabric? As for these Bermuda shorts, are they denim or leopard? These pants, made of bark or fur? What can we also say about this leather biker jacket, whose zipper is stopped dead in its tracks by a Magritte painting?

Never like in this collection, designer Takuya Moriyama has had fun confusing us. Delving into his childhood memories, he tries to restore some distant echoes through incredible work on the material and innovative treatments. The stylist, who worked at Issey Miyake before launching his brand in 2013, dazzles with his magic tricks.