Paris confirms the Japanese mastery with Junya Watanabe, Mihara Yasuhiro and like boys

Once again, Japanese creativity stands out in Paris, on the fourth day of male parades. In particular with the designers of Junya Watanabe Man, Maison Mihara Yasuhiro and like more men's boys, who knew how to develop their language in this fall-winter 2025/26 season, with inventive and perfectly mastered collections.

Junya Watanabe gives it on Friday morning. The designer has no equal to rebuild the cards and renew the male locker room every season, by making the most functional and ordinary pieces desirable. This time, he takes us to deep America, where his models could easily blend into the crowd without being noticed.

The cap (or the cowboy hat) screwed on a face framed by a bushy beard and long hair, our man seems marked by the hard work of life, solidly planted in his site shoes, dressed in jeans , sometimes worn short and rolled up, with a checkered shirt and an old leather jacket for a typical look of lumberjack. For next winter, the Japanese creator is attacking one of the emblems of the American locker room, the Mackinaw Cruiser jacket of Sonon.

The brand created in 1897 in Seattle by Clinton C. Filson provided gold researchers at the time, addressing other outdoor workers over the decades. The cruiser jacket appeared precisely during the gold rush in Alaska and was patented in 1914 by CC son, with its pieces workwear Authentic, taking up its historical, solid and facts to last, the American label is now seduced also hunters and fishermen.

The Mackinaw Cruiser Jacket has remained practically unchanged since its beginnings. It is distinguished by its appearance of a tartan wool surgery adorned with many pockets, one of which is plated in the back all over the width. Junya Watanabe plays with his pockets and their flap, which he offers in different materials, leathers and colors. He also has fun with the front and back of the jacket, which he recomposes from opposite materials between wool, denim, cotton, suede, leather, nylon, etc.

These variations also affect denim pants with tartan or leather inserts. The utilitarian style subtly combines with a very chic preppy side. As illustrated by the cotton and leather canvas vests that are superimposed on the woolen survest with large red and black tiles, on elegant businessman's shirts with regimental tie. The brand has also collaborated for this collection with Levi's for jeans and with paraboot, New Balance and Hainrich Dinkelacker for shoes.

At Maison Mihara Yasuhiro, the French rapper Take A Mic sets up at an office at the end of the podium, as if he were on a television set. When the big screen behind its back is backlit, all backstage is revealed in Chinese shadow. As often, a certain melancholy floats on the parade of the Japanese designer anchored in the grunge era of nineties. Everything seems a little dusty and faded. Like this series of military jackets in faded, worn and damaged canvas, or these skillfully discolored jeans.

The silhouettes consist of a poorly identified stratification of gray fleece clothes (hoodies, t-shirts, sweaters), checkered shirt, flannel jackets or fine ribs velvet. Sequins and tiny geometric patterns are very similar to dust or paint stains on jogging pants or extra large jeans.

Mihara Yasuhiro reworks his classics with a series of hybrid, destructured, decomposed and rebuilt clothing in new proportions, the barium of which is often disoriented. Like these pants, the right part of which escapes and widens outwards with a disproportionate pocket, very practical to stuff your wand! The sleeves of the shirts multiply or take the tangent transforming into a sling, twirling around the neck.

A mix and match of jackets and shirts transforms into a skirt. Elsewhere, the skirt is made from cutting pants. The side of a bomber is moved to the top of the jacket, replacing the collar. A padded sky striped shirt takes on volume and plays the jackets on a denim set.

The creator of this wardrobe of humor touches. In particular, in playful accessories, such as these small handbags with a banana or a cone of ice as a handle or these boots in the shape of shoppping tote or luxury handbag, such as this black quilted model with its two golden channels … very Chanel. Models identical to those developed by the Spanish label Abra last season.

See the parade

Like men's boys more closed this fourth day with a punch collection, entitled “To Hell With War” (in the devil the war). Rei Kawakubo once again launches a deeply anti -militarist and antiviolence message of peace through his clothes.

On the poignant voice of Nina Simone, who calls to “let the wind blow on your heart” (Let the wind blow through your heart), she scrolls young recruits with the appearance of deserters. As its new model of laces shoes wonderfully illustrates, a sort of clown shoes whose tip is completely raised upwards, perfectly giving this idea of ​​brake or walking.

In dreadlocks rasta, wearing a helmet covered with a colored turban and flowers, the models take on uniforms that are shattered. Shapes, colors, camouflage, patterns … The designer shakes up everything in her path. The jackets of double rows of golden pimples take on the appearance of frock coat, endorsed on crumpled silk shirts. The pants swell in puffy shapes or are shortened in large flared Bermuda. Everything is cut and recomposed, narrowed or elongated, curved, lightened, zipped, jackets entirely reshaped with rounded shapes, passing through the long skirts decked out of pockets.

Brocart or flowery fabrics suddenly invite themselves into these military looks. Khaki wools and canvases are gradually mixing textured velvet or denim. They fit into pockets and collar in a blue striped shirt. Sometimes there is only one part of this Loden green in coats and jackets patchworks in bright colors, while pixelated multicolored shirts sparkle under certain dark jackets.