After the beautiful, very expensive villas, inflation is also affecting the galettes des rois in La Rochelle. Soaring prices of raw materials and in particular almond powder which arrives straight from California (United States) and butter, but also the recent arrival of a new generation of pastry chefs who are turning heads, consumers are discovering that frangipane is more than just a puff pastry, and its price can reach new heights.
With her “Boussole” at 65 euros, for six people, the highly publicized pastry chef Nina Métayer, who has just opened two addresses in La Rochelle, is certainly the most expensive cake of the moment. The Rochelais had never seen this before. A high-end crispy frangipane, with products that are just as high-end (semi-wholemeal flour, AOP Poitou-Charentes butter, etc.), in short a unique gift, in a very limited edition, that few people will be able to afford but which will find its clientele of gourmands who don't watch their wallets.
Responsible artisans
But let's come back to earth because the galette royale from the La Rochelle champion is not the standard average. After a quick trip to a handful of artisan bakers, we find the six-part frangipane at more reasonable prices, between 20 and 25 euros. It is much more expensive than around ten years ago but among those mainly concerned, we obviously highlight the quality of the products and the skill of the hand. There is therefore no question of pushing the comparison with certain mass distribution brands which display cakes for 3 or 4 euros.
“There is a big variation depending on the products used and the explosion in the cost of raw materials. In some frangipanes, you won't even have almond powder! A craftsman has a responsibility for quality and the consumer must get value for his money. If this is not the case, he must change creameries,” defends Olivier Neveu, president of the Departmental Federation of Bakers and Pastry Chefs. The arrival of new names that drive up prices would not be a problem. “It’s a good sign. There are small restaurants and there are also starred restaurants,” he continues.
With around forty bakeries and pastry shops in the La Rochelle area (and nearly 350 in the department), the customer would therefore be spoiled for choice. At Karine and Johnathan Bretaudeau, located in the Porte Royale district of La Rochelle, frangipane for six people, already multi-awarded, is 21 euros.
Jonathan and Karine Brétaudeau, at the head of the Porte Royale bakery in La Rochelle. Their frangipane, six parts, homemade, is 21 euros.
Romuald Augé / SO
“Puffing a frangipane takes a lot of time; it has to be prepared three days in advance. We work with AOP Poitou-Charentes butter and materials whose cost has increased significantly. But we want to sell homemade products. I don't want to spend my day just opening boxes! », explains Karine Bretaudeau. For a less elitist pancake, you can opt for the crown made from flour, milk and butter. And count around 15 euros for six shares. Finally, note that the artisans also stand out from the supermarkets by respecting the date of Epiphany (this Monday, January 6): customers are just discovering the 2025 cakes.
