The Halles market is renowned for being the “belly” of Narbonne: in this temple of gastronomy, locals do their gourmet shopping before Christmas Eve. The opportunity to take the trend in consumption, despite inflation.
With 65 artisans, producers and traders gathered at the covered market of Les Halles, it's hard not to find something to fill the New Year's Eve table. From aperitif to dessert, no need to go further to fill your basket with good gastronomic products: cold meats, foie gras, poultry, game, seafood, mature cheeses, sweet delights, exotic fruits… It's hard to resist the temptation, even when inflation puts the wallet on a diet.
Scallops in the shell, “fresher and cheaper”
Stéphane Romain, host of Les Halles, surrounded by two accomplices during the Christmas activities. Independent – CHRISTOPHE BARREAU
Moreover, Stéphane Romain, leader of the Association of Artisans and Traders of Les Halles, is well placed to know this. With his hands in the dough, preparing Christmas shortbread, he confides: “Even when purchasing power is at half mast, consumers want to treat themselves for the holidays and they do not spare money.” From then on, the great classics like foie gras, capon, lobster, truffled brie… are always the stars of the meal. However, aren't habits and consumption patterns changing?
We prefer to buy simple dishes at a reasonable price, but cook them well
This year again Marie-Claude will buy scallops, but this time she will take them in their shell. Independent – CHRISTOPHE BARREAU
A few hours before New Year's Eve, Marie-Claude, 67, a loyal customer from Gruissan, is looking for scallops.“It’s peak season and that’s what we usually have for the holidays.” Nevertheless, “this year, I'm going to buy them still in their shell: it seems that it's not difficult to open, it's fresher and less expensive. We'll save some money.” In fact, the price of scallops to open yourself varies between €10.80 and €12.80 per kilo from the fishmongers in Les Halles. It costs €2 each for an open mollusk but still in its shell. And up to €68.90 per kilo for nuts completely removed from their shells, already cleaned and ready to fry.
“Christmas is very important to me and I prioritize meals”
Marie-Hélène and her son Olivier decided to cook with four hands. Independent – CHRISTOPHE BARREAU
As for Marie-Hélène, retired, who came to do her shopping with her son Olivier, 28, the menu is already composed: “We are going to prepare dieppoise-style sole fillets ourselves. We have ordered the fillets already leavened and we are going to concoct a small bisque with cream, all garnished with mushrooms. For the holidays, we prefer to buy simple dishes at a reasonable price, but cook them well and take the time, for this, Les Halles is the ideal place, and not only during the holiday season!”
For Michèle, the Christmas meal is “very important”: she doesn’t spare money. Independent – CHRISTOPHE BARREAU
As for Michèle, also retired, she does not entirely share this opinion. “For shopping, in principle, I don't give up anything because Christmas is very important to me and I prioritize the meal. I'm going to cook monkfish and make compositions with shrimp, oysters, scallops… the products des Halles are very tasty, but I bought it for €300!”
Ingrid Gau, vice-president, notes that consumption patterns are changing. Independent – CHRISTOPHE BARREAU
Consumer trend: “Caterers won’t sleep much!”
Ingrid Gau, caterer and vice-president of the Association of Artisans and Traders of Les Halles, notes that Narbonnais still appreciate the great New Year's Eve classics like “oysters, foie gras, poultry”. However, she also notes that large whole poultry is no longer preferred by consumers. “Is this due to new consumption patterns and new equipment in our kitchens? Indeed, we no longer have such large ovens as in the past and more and more customers have oil-free cooking appliances (“airfryer”, Editor’s note). I realize that meals cooked in portions and meats already cut for 4 or 6 people are popular: besides, I no longer have venison stew, everything has been reserved! I also offer sweetbread bites and scallop and prawn casseroles. Most customers ask me if they can reheat these dishes in their cooking appliance without oil. We must therefore adapt and invent alternatives for these new modes of consumption. I think for this reason, caterers won’t be sleeping much during the holidays!”
