The Museum of Decorative Arts in Paris opens its doors to a unique exhibition, entitled “Fashion in models: Photographs from the 1920s and 1930s”available until January 26, 2025.
This retrospective focuses on “model deposit”a little-known but crucial practice from the 1920s-1930s, used by major luxury houses to fight against counterfeiting. Faced with cultural effervescence between the wars, this process allowed creators to protect their works in the face of increasingly frequent imitations.
The design filing consisted of photos of outfits taken from different angles to capture every detail, thus serving as legal evidence in the event of a dispute. “These archives bear witness to a creative heritage and a time when French fashion was reinventing itself”explains the museum. Through the photographs on display, visitors discover iconic names like Elsa Schiaparelli, Jean Patouor Madeleine Vionnetfigures who have left their mark on fashion with daring creations that have become references. In 1921, Vionnet, a pioneer of bias cutting, defended her invention against copies in court, giving legitimacy to this process.
An artistic exploration of fashion photography
Although strictly legal in use, design registration quickly went beyond its primary function to become a creative act. Some tailors, like Paul Poiretplaced their models in artistic settings, surrounded by works of art and furniture, transforming the photos into real photographic works. Madeleine Vionnetfor her part, played with mirror effects to accentuate the perspective and movement of her outfits.
These photographs, signed by renowned artists such as Man Ray, Paul Béjat or Therese Bonneyreflect an era where fashion and photography intertwine, creating a unique and avant-garde style. This movement contributed to the rise of the fashion press and the sale of high-end items, despite initial private use. The exhibition offers a fascinating testimony to this era, while highlighting the importance of design registration in the protection of fashion intellectual property.
In a context where counterfeiting is still very present, this exhibition pays tribute to the know-how of couturiers and the intangible heritage of French luxury. It reveals a part of the history of fashion where art and legislation combine to preserve the uniqueness and authenticity of French creations.
Also read: The Louvre and L’Oréal: a collaboration around beauty
