Switzerland never ceases to amaze. This country of 26 cantons, which never wanted to join the European Union, is undoubtedly the most exotic in Europe. Its capital, Bern, is no exception: with less than 140,000 inhabitants, it is much smaller than other large Swiss cities like Zurich (400,000) or Geneva (200,000)! She doesn’t care. Its beautiful historic center has been included in its entirety on the UNESCO world heritage list. It is certainly not home to large banks or international institutions like on the shores of Lake Geneva, but it was chosen in 1848 as a Bundesstadt (federal city) when the country became a federal state.
Leaving the station (Bahnhofplatz), you discover in a few steps the imposing Bundeshaus, seat of the government and Parliament. We can describe its style as “eclectic” because the building was erected, between 1894 and 1902, by no fewer than 173 contractors and decorated by 33 artists, from Ticino, Geneva, Lucerne and Neuchâtel! But ultimately the building gives off a general impression of very Swiss solidity and allows Bern to legitimize its title of capital. Even if, it must be admitted, it is not really… Because the drafters of the Constitution of 1848, rather than using the term “Hauptstadt” (capital), chose “Sitz der Bundesbehörde”, it is i.e. “Headquarters of the federal authorities”. A very Swiss nuance: here the exoticism is in the details!
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The meanders of the Aare
This pretty little town is an invitation to stroll. Moreover, it is said, the Bernese walk a little slower than the other Swiss. They are right: the street arcades allow you to stroll without worrying about the weather. Old bookstores are followed by tempting pastries, traditional cheese shops and Swiss knife shops. You should visit the Klötzli cutlery (it’s the largest in Switzerland) before going to drink a craft beer at the Altes Tramdepot, not far from the bear pit, where the view of the meanders of the Aare is magnificent. Then have lunch at the Bern Casino, a superb building dating from 1909 and renovated in 2019, thinking of this famous exoticism: here there have never been slot machines!
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Since its creation, it has been a cultural and social and now culinary meeting place with five restaurants. Also know how to gain height and climb (by funicular) the local “mountain”. At the top of Gurten hill (858 meters), you dine like in a dream, with the old city at your feet. Thinking about the next day’s visit, that of the very modern Paul Klee Center which houses 4,000 works. The painter, born near Bern to a German father, taught at the Bauhaus in Weimar before bequeathing us a masterful production.
Practical information
Go. With the TGV Lyria in 4h30 from Paris (connection in Basel).
Formalities. From France, the national identity card is sufficient.
Purchases. In Swiss francs (Switzerland is not in the euro zone).
Move. The entire historic center can be explored on foot. But from the first night spent in a hotel in the city, you benefit from the Bern Ticket which allows you to use the very dense tram network for free throughout your stay. And this as soon as you arrive at the station, by presenting the hotel reservation confirmation. The Bern Ticket also gives access to the Gurten funicular. A very good plan!
Discover. The 90-minute City Tours Bern (with French-speaking guide) allows you to discover the secrets of the Collegiate Church (its bell tower is the tallest in Switzerland), the Ogre fountain on Kornhausplatz or the astonishing Zytglogge (Tower of the Clock), the oldest door in Bern. The Bernese themselves make this visit! (Tel +41 31 328 12 12)
Get informed. www.bern.com/ and www.myswitzerland.com/fr-ch
To read. The Lovers’ Dictionary of Switzerland, by Metin Arditi. Éditions Plon, 2017, 624 pages, €24.
