Symbols of Paris, cafes and bistros classified as French cultural heritage

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More than six years since Alain Fontaine and his association Bistros and cafes of France were waiting for this. “Social and cultural practices in Bistros and Cafés in France” were officially registered at the end of September 2024 in inventory of intangible cultural heritage In France. A decisive step on the road which should lead to the inclusion of French bistros and cafés in the world’s intangible cultural heritage. Nothing less!

“It is a great satisfaction to have brought together an entire community of intellectuals, artists, professionals and simple regulars around these essential places in the lives of the French, but also to have convinced the Ministry of Culture of the need to preserve this heritage and ensure its transmission,” reacts the president of the association, also owner of the Mesturet bistro, in the 2nd arrondissement of Paris.

Heritage in danger

Because the little world of the “French-style” bistro, with its counter, its colorful boss, its waiters who ensure the atmosphere and its regular or occasional customers, indeed constitute a heritage in danger.

“The existence of family bistros is clearly threatened,” observes Alain Fontaine. “In 80 years, the number of bistros and cafés in France has fallen from 400,000 to less than 40,000 last year, an average of barely one establishment per municipality. And the despair continues slowly.”

A worrying development for many villages where they are one of the last places to socialize or for city centers where they perpetuate against all odds a certain French art of living with a backdrop of fast food.

An essential cog in social life

The “inventory” sheet classifies the bistro as an essential cog in social life and culture of the French “where residents can get information, consume, eat, and above all meet up and get to know each other”.

If we often think, when we talk about bistros, of checkered tablecloths or rattan chairs, the Ethnological and Intangible Heritage Committee of the Ministry of Culture insists on the friendliness “linked to social diversity” or even on the numerous social or cultural activities in which bistros and cafés are often the scene: conferences, exhibitions, meetings, workshops, events, parties, etc., far from the anonymity of the big brands or shopping centers.

We come from afar to breathe in the atmosphere of the bistro

The defenders of bistros and cafes, united in their association created in 2018, intend to rely on this classification to participate in “safeguard measures”. ” There Café Raceformerly the Café Garçons Course, was thus relaunched this year after twelve years of absence,” points out Alain Fontaine.

“But we also intend to launch various initiatives such as a National Day of Bistros and Cafés, actions to raise awareness among young people about bistro professions in catering training establishments or even a general public heritage exhibition in a prestigious location. People need to be proud to work in these places.”

Strengthened by this ranking, the association, which has received the support of actors like Pierre Arditi, Jean-Pierre Darroussin, Yolande Moreau and François Morel, counts well take his case to UNESCO. “Recognition at the international level would be a natural outcome,” assures Alain Fontaine. “When we come from the other side of the world to visit Paris, it is for its museums and its monuments, but we also hope to experience a moment like a Frenchman at the table of a café. I am well placed to tell you, I welcome all nationalities in my establishment! »

Bruno CARLHIAN

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