MM6 Maison Margiela shines the spotlight on its man at Pitti Uomo

Special guest of Pitti Uomo 107, MM6 Maison Margiela literally shined the spotlight on its menswearWednesday evening, during a high-impact parade. The Parisian brand, owned by the Italian fashion group OTB, chose the immense Liberty-style Florentine greenhouse of the Tepidarium Giacomo Roster, which it transformed into a dark place, between a disreputable street and an abandoned hangar. The ideal setting for a suggestive nighttime stroll with melancholy accents.

The room is plunged into darkness, when the models advance like shadows. The look is that of misunderstood poets or cursed rockers, eyes hidden by large black visor glasses, tie tied like a thin scarf around the neck. Light spots project white light onto them, revealing a predominantly black collection. A nod to the performance fashion show, which Maison Margiela organized at Pitti Uomo in 2006 with a collection composed entirely of total white looks at the time.

At times, red or green spots illuminate the silhouettes creating unexpected effects, while color appears here and there like a flash. Like this sparkling turquoise lurex costume worn next to the skin on a bare torso or this other set with changing red and blue reflections. MM6 Maison Margiela’s wardrobe for fall-winter 2025/26 seems to have been designed for a life in the spotlight. Confirm this, for example, this jacket or overshirt with pockets and metal buttons in black denim and these matching pants, faded in certain points as if the whole thing was swept by a beam of light brightening it in places.

Along the same lines, turtleneck sweaters produce a shiny effect using lurex thread. A three-piece velvet suit, also worn as is without a shirt, displays a myriad of tiny printed stars. Elsewhere, the linen jacket, one of the Pitti Uomo classics, is reinterpreted and available in a shiny faux leather fabric. leatherette.

A photo of Miles Davis dressed in a fur coat, hiding behind huge black glasses, with a cigarette in his mouth, served as inspiration and a common thread for this collection, bringing a breath of energy that was both energetic and sensual. to these thirty rock-couture silhouettes, both glamorous and minimalist. Why jazz? “Because this music has a visceral link with fashion, it is instantly cool. And because the American trumpeter is a style icon,” summarizes the designer of the MM6 creative team, who chose from the start to stay anonymous.

“Coming to Pitti Uomo gave us the opportunity to reflect on our men’s offering through a collection created specifically for this occasion. It is a contemporary wardrobe that reflects the attitude, concepts and creative processes of MM6 Our pieces are designed to empathize the identity of the people who wear them Here, we really wanted to talk about. menswear. While remaining very wearable, these clothes express an idea of ​​flamboyance. We thought about how to create strong and surprising pieces, designed to impress, while working on textures, which are a fundamental element for humans,” he continues.

Suits, trench coats, Mackintosh coats, perfectos, cigarette pants, denim jackets… The basics of the men’s wardrobe are reproduced in different materials and textile treatments, from vinyl to suede to leather with a papier-mâché effect. The attitude of the MM6 man is carefully defined by a series of details. From square-toed shoes (lace-up shoes or biker boots) to accessories, such as hand-held helmets. A very chic reversible faux mink jacket, transforms, once turned inside out, into a practical nylon bomber jacket stuffed inside.

The brand also offers imposing modular black or white leather gloves, two in one, made with Agnelle with, on one side, the typical model for driving and on the other a slightly hard zipped cuff just to cover the wrist. Another desirable accessory, the weekend bag in the shape of a trumpet cover, tight and rectangular, very practical for traveling with its horizontal handles, which is equipped with a handle to also be carried vertically.

Created in 1997, the line contemporary of Maison Margiela launched the menswear three years ago. This represents a third of MM6’s sales, which without advertising or particular communication, grew little by little until it became a brand in its own right, rubbing shoulders with competitors such as Acné Studio, Miu Miu and Loewe. It is distributed today through 600 multi-brand addresses worldwide and 23 mono-brand stores: 11 in Japan, 3 in Europe (in London, Milan and Paris via a concession at Galeries Lafayette), 3 between Hong Kong and Macau and 6 in China. .

“For us, it is an honor and an incredible opportunity to be at Pitti Uomo. Florence is a magical city, which has always brought us luck, where we also paraded with Diesel and Marni”, comments on the sidelines of the parade the founder and president of OTB, Renzo Rosso, who on the other hand is not announcing any news from the flagship brand Maison Margiela even though it has just lost its emblematic creative director John Galliano, who left after ten years of service. “His successor will be announced in due time. In the meantime, we can count on a fabulous internal design team,” slips the entrepreneur, recalling that “in the past, the brand remained active for four years without a creative director.”

MM6 will return to show in Milan next February with its women’s collection punctuated by a few men’s looks.