Restaurant review | Brasserie Bernard: classic!

Rising stars in the restaurant industry, institutions that stand the test of time, hidden gems… Our critics dig in and help you make informed choices. This week, visit a must-see on Avenue Bernard, in Outremont.

Ah, the classics! Whether we’re talking about cinema, music, literature or even a restaurant, they have a comforting je ne sais quoi. We can sometimes want to abandon them for the darling of the moment… but we always come back to them.

Onion soup au gratin, steak and fries, fresh oysters, a casserole of mussels… Parisian brasserie cuisine is full of classics of the genre, dishes which, in the eyes of some, will never find their equal in the kitchen contemporary today. We can question this nostalgic vision, but when one of these dishes appears before us with its delicious aromas, it is difficult to deny their appeal!

There are several establishments where French brasserie-style cuisine is featured in Montreal. We think of L’Express, which delights purists, of Leméac or of Brasserie Bernard.

The place, which celebrated its 11th anniversary this year, has its loyal clientele. The brewery was set up in the premises of La Moulerie. The restaurant, a project of the experienced restaurateurs who are the Holder brothers, Paul, Maurice and Richard (the latter is also co-owner of Majestique, Darling and Miracolo), and Nathalie Côté (Stella Pizzeria), has endured. No doubt because of its offering which unites fans of French cuisine, but also because of its comforting and warm space thanks to its yellow-beige color, which dominates the decor.

There is something reassuring here: the assurance of good food, good service, a pleasant atmosphere.

And that’s exactly what we were treated to on a Sunday evening in November. The hustle and bustle of the weekend had passed, but the room, half full, remained warm. Faced with the host of choices available to us, we opt for several classics (that’s the theme of this review, after all): salmon tartare, garlic snails, grilled octopus, gold and its Grenobloise sauce, veal ravioli.

In front of the tartars, one of the specialties of the place, my heart swings: classic beef or salmon, or would I dare more inventive variations on the sea side (salmon, yogurt, mujijol caviar, dill) or land (beef, tartufata, parmesan , fried shallot, chervil)? Our server, who unabashedly displays his preference for the classics, suggested this to me. Was it the best choice? My salmon tartare, although perfectly cut with a knife a la minute, really lacked punch in its flavors. A little bland, this tartare.

Fortunately, the rest did not disappoint. The grilled octopus had everything to please, with its fried polenta – a great idea – topped with aioli and a very good, very tasty virgin sauce. The garlic snails tasted exactly as they were supposed to. My pan-fried walleye and its Grenobloise sauce were also made according to the rules of the art; the fish was not overcooked, and the celeriac puree and green beans brought a comforting touch to the whole thing. The veal ravioli was also very delicious, coated in a port cream sauce with forest mushrooms.

Also classic were our liquid accompaniments. The menu (by sommelier Angélique Custeau) will appeal to traditionalists rather than natural wine lovers. There are some great finds among the few private imports. We found what we wanted there, both in the Loire: a Chenin Blanc, Le Vent dans les saules, to accompany my fish, and a Sancerre Les Grous, on sale at the SAQ, for snails and sweet pasta, which didn’t want a red one.

On the sweet finish, we fell in love with the apple pavlova and airy meringue, with its sublime presentation. A very popular dessert, our server tells us, that it was impossible to serve during the summer because it was so hot, to the great dismay of some regulars. It’s time to enjoy it, especially since its white chocolate ganache with spices and its mulled wine coulis are completely in season.