Artificial intelligence | The models we replace

Competing with models generated by artificial intelligence (AI): this is the new reality of the modeling industry, which is worried about the future of professionals earning their living in this field.

Real, right, the model? The ability to create highly realistic models is spreading fear in the modeling industry. Are flesh-and-blood models doomed to disappear? “We are afraid that our jobs will be replaced,” says Alexandra Moïse, owner of the model and artist representation agency Maven, in Montreal.

“Part of the industry will perhaps be taken over by [l’IA] “, also believes Marie-Josée Trempe, president and founder of the Montreal modeling agency Specs.

Electronic commerce (e-commerce) is the market where virtual models “are most likely to take the place of real models,” according to Renato Hübner Barcelos, professor of digital marketing at the University of Quebec in Montreal (UQAM). .

When a business uses a mannequin for e-commerce, the goal is to present the product to the consumer to facilitate the online purchasing process, he explains. Its identity therefore does not matter, and this is why this market could be threatened by AI.

It would be in particular to save money that companies are turning to this technology, according to M^me Dip.

In Montreal, hiring an e-commerce model can cost approximately $1000 to $2000 per day.

“Most models earn a regular living through [commerce électronique] », underlines Quebec model Acey Farley. She says she is worried about seeing income disappear in favor of virtual models and is not surprised that this sector is growing: “It is the part of modeling that is easiest for a robot to recreate because it is more static and repetitive. »

According to the young woman, businesses need e-commerce, but using real models takes time, as they often have up to 200 garments to try on per working day.

Furthermore, AI also threatens other professionals in the industry, such as photographers, makeup artists, hairdressers, believes M^me Dip.

An additional option for businesses

Based in Amsterdam, Lalaland.ai has designed software for fashion brands that want to create their own AI-generated models, over which they have “full control,” according to its co-founder, Michael Musandu. With this software, businesses can visualize their products in 3D on virtual models for e-commerce.

One of the goals of Lalaland.ai is to solve a “major problem of underrepresentation of people when shopping online” without “significantly increasing costs” for businesses and consumers, explains Michael Musandu, co-founder of Lalaland. .ai, which believes that too often there is only one model of body, ethnicity and age represented.

The intention is not to completely replace real mannequins with virtual models, assures Mr. Musandu, but rather to add an option for businesses. “There is not a single one that we work with that is going to slow down its use of real models,” he says, emphasizing the importance of “models capable of creating an authentic connection with consumers.”

A company does need real people if its goal is to connect with the public, according to Professor Renato Hübner Barcelos, as is the case, for example, in an advertising campaign.

A double-edged knife

If the use of virtual models can offer advantages to certain companies, it would also involve risks. This can be a double-edged sword, that is to say that the company could “make money in the short term”, but there is a possibility of “burning its reputation”, thinks Marie-Josée Trempe .

In March 2023, clothing brand Levi Strauss & Co. caused controversy by announcing its partnership with Lalaland.ai to increase “the number and diversity of [ses] models,” according to a press release. The company then had to clarify that it did not plan to reduce its “live photo shoot projects, the use of live models or [son] commitment to working with models from diverse backgrounds.”

According to Hübner Barcelos, if a company decides to use AI-generated models, it must be transparent about it and clearly justify its decision to consumers. This choice should not be made solely to increase profits or to promote diversity already present among flesh-and-blood models.

If a company really wants to help minorities, it is better to give a job to a real person from diversity to avoid negative reactions from consumers, adds the professor.

In competition with one’s own image

At the Maven agency, companies are already trying to negotiate the price of a model when they use AI, testifies Alexandra Moïse, whether to duplicate the model’s body with different clothes or change their face.

A reality that model Acey Farley knows well: once her image is captured during a photo shoot, it no longer belongs to her and companies can keep it to, among other things, reproduce her face on another body. “Eventually, I will start competing with my own image,” she says.

According to the two professionals, it would be important for the image rights of models to be better regulated so that they are better protected when a company uses AI. Michael Musandu also believes that better regulation of AI must be considered, especially with regard to the transparency of companies regarding their use of this new technology.

That said, AI-generated mannequins represent a phenomenon still in its experimental phase. “This is all so new. […]notes Mr. Hübner Barcelos. We’re still trying to learn what works and what doesn’t. »