The Paris Male Fashion Week, which ends on Sunday, celebrated through fall-winter 2025-2026 collections the return to a certain form of elegance and the search for comfort, all tinged with political demands.
– “Neo -Dandy” –
“There is a desire to return to a form of elegance. A lot of marks have pushed this figure of +neo-Dandy +. We want to recreate this kind of man who wants to dress and who wants to s’ Dress “, decrypt for AFP Adrien Communier, fashion heads for the GQ France magazine.
The costume is everywhere: in “mix and match” and very large at AMI, in a style that is reminiscent of that of English students from Cambridge, in velvet at Hermès, with inspirations from the 1970s at Amiri and Latinos at Willy Chavarria, or stricter at Egonlab.
The master in the matter remains Kim Jones, who presented in Dior Homme a collection – perhaps the last – very graphic and refined, with costumes inspired by the archives of Mr. Dior which lengthen the silhouette.
At Louis Vuitton, Pharrell Williams and Nigo also proposed a collection mixing the codes of streetwear that are dear to those of dandyism, including costume sets associated with bombers, leather jackets or Teddy jackets.
– comfort again and again –
“Faced with this evolution of the costume, there are still a lot of very comfortable things,” said Adrien Communier.
Between large clothes and soft materials, like Yohji Yamamoto which presented a series of large quilted jackets with pants, there is “as a desire to get on,” insists the specialist.
The “layering” (superposition of several layers, note) is also always in order, whether at Yamamoto, Superkid, Hermès, Kolor, or even aurae, which goes so far as to superimpose its mesh dresses on wool sweaters with XXL sleeves.
At 3.Paradis, the Frenchman Emeric Tchatchoua pushed comfort to the extreme with cut down jackets as in duvets and pillows.
– The pants are tightening –
-If the pants are still largely ample and fluid, with still many Bermudas Baggy who illustrate the revival of the 2000s, the pants are tightening and gradually shorten, as with Dior.
“In my opinion, we come back to something that will be strongly inspired by the 2010 years”, largely dominated by Slim pants, explains Adrien Communner.
– colored touches –
Winter season obliges, the collections have largely available in a palette of dark colors, always with brown, lots of khaki, taupe, but also beige or cream.
A few colored touches have nevertheless emerged here or there: from Dior powdery pink to candy pink of Vuitton and Kenzo, red, blue and yellow at Bluemarble, or yellow at Friend.
– Political parades –
The news was also invited on the podiums.
For his first parade in Paris, Californian Willy Chavarria distinguished himself with a colorful and politicized parade, enamelled with references to the film “Emilia Perez”, carried by a transgender actress and in pole position for the Oscars, and to the pro- discourse LGBT of the Bishop of Washington against US President Donald Trump.
The fashion world is “afraid” of the latter and dares not stand up against him for fear of commercial reprisals, the Belgian creator Walter Van Beirendonck said in the press after his parade.
He presented a futuristic show with models sporting jackets wearing badges “Peace, Not War” on the song “Give Peace a Chance” by John Lennon and Yoko Ono. “It’s horrible what’s going on in the World at the moment, “deplored the 67 -year -old Belgian, believing that there were” too many wars, too far right “.
