spotlight on the costume at AMI Paris and LGN

Men’s fashion is returning to its roots with great emphasis on formal wardrobe. On the second day of the Parisian fashion shows for fall-winter 2025/26, designers are multiplying the proposals around suits, jackets, pants and coats with sought-after cuts and sublime fabrics. Overview, from AMI Paris to LGN Louis-Gabriel Nouchi.

​Alexandre Mattiussi delivers a sumptuous collection. No frills, no original finds. Just the garment with a capital V. The cuts are clean, the palette calibrated, the fabrics superb. The simplicity is taken to the extreme and the result closely resembles what could be the perfect wardrobe. In AMI’s wardrobe for next winter, we find suits that are neither tight nor too loose, which gracefully dress women and men, beautiful double-breasted jackets with three buttons, which give off a feeling of lightness, coats that fall just. Everything seems in the right place.

The AMI Paris stylist receives guests in a building under construction, in the 9th arrondissement, with the feel of a jazz club with glasses of champagne and languorous music. A single front row of folding wooden chairs winds through the immense space, welcoming numerous stars, like Catherine Deneuve. It is a melancholic air which welcomes the models in flat shoes to notes of saxophone, then to the piano, creating an intimate and measured atmosphere in keeping with the collection.

Handkerchiefs are tied around the neck, cowboy style, tone on tone with blouses and shirts, which are slipped into the pants. They are also worn over pants, sometimes extending into tunics, in a more relaxed spirit. A tartan fabric, just pinched on the side, transforms into an elegant wrap skirt. A large men’s suit in wool gabardine in a dark, almost charcoal gray, is worn with class next to the skin. A bracelet is worn as a necklace. A tuxedo jacket is cut straight. An impeccable overcoat is paired with a suede skirt with a very pretty man’s belt, while hands slip into pockets, sleeves rolled up.

“It’s an attitude. An incarnation. They’re real people! It’s us. It’s life. From my workshop, Place des Victoires, I see people running, entering the metro, throwing themselves into a taxi, lunch at the table at Chez Georges There is something very inspiring in what I have experienced there for three years now,” Alexandre Mattiussi tells us backstage.

“These are real clothes. Beautiful colors. It’s Parisian, it’s chic. It’s for everyone, men, women. I like simplicity. The silhouettes are more precise, more defined and at the same time much more relaxed. It’s my lightest universe”, he concludes with a broad smile, apparently happy and satisfied with the result.

In these troubled times, Louis-Gabriel Nouchi has chosen “1984”, the dystopian novel by the British George Orwell, as the guiding thread of his collection for fall-winter 1025/26. A series of black looks opens the show, playing on the reflection of materials: silky velvet, shiny leathers, latex driving gloves bristling with sharp points, shiny vinyl boots.

The stylist excels in the tailoring wardrobe with voluminous and comfortable suits, composed of loose pants and jackets oversizedworn indifferently by men or women. Don’t miss the maxi coats that drip all the way to the ground, which have become the brand’s signature.

The stylist skillfully mixes formal pieces and underwear, a category that he sells very well and increasingly highlights in his fashion shows, with undershirts unbuttoned down to the navel on hairless chests or hairy chests, your choice of knitwear reinforced at the waist with weightlifting belts, tight-fitting, see-through wrestling leotards and cycling shorts. The range also includes a zipped ribbed wool bodysuit, very low-cut revealing the entire buttocks.