The vintage market, supported by the rise of circular fashion, is gaining visibility in the media. Vogue France devotes a new video format to emblematic places of high-end vintage. In his series Vintage Hotspotthe fashion magazine highlights personalities and addresses from the sector. In the last episode, Jeanne Damas, founder of Rouje, presents three Parisian places.
CM-CM.fr is interested in these stores and the entrepreneurs who make them successful.
1. Carole Biegelman and “Vintage Fashion”
Located rue Rochebrune in 11e district of Paris, Vintage Fashion is the first stop on the journey. Jeanne Damas says, “I started coming here ten years ago. Carole, she really has this taste for vintage, materials, eras. I have the impression that she also hunts a little for herself. There’s always emotion.”
Carole Biegelman's work in choosing her pieces makes her a reference for designers and directors in search of inspiration and authenticity. Among the items offered in the episode: Saint Laurent, Gaultier and even Chanel. The specialist, active in the sector for more than thirty years, does not open her store during the week to devote most of her time to researching, restoring and cleaning the clothes she selects. A singularity that Jeanne Damas underlines: “Yes, you only open on weekends. Because all week long, she searches, she hunts, she restores, she repairs, she cleans”.
2. Olivier Chatenet: the Saint Laurent heritage
Rue de Metz, in 5e arrondissement, Olivier Chatenet, collector and expert, is an unbeatable Saint Laurent. “For my 30th birthday, I did a Saint Laurent 70s theme, Marrakech. I was looking for a Spanish Saint Laurent corset, black, with a gold border. I understood that it was quite complicated to find. And in doing so a little research, I discovered Olivier”, remembers Jeanne Damas.
Each piece in his private collection – one of the largest in the world with 4,000 pieces – is documented: label, season, source of inspiration. Olivier Chatenet also resells pieces directly to fashion houses: “From the archives that I gathered, the idea was to return them to the houses and their heritage departments.” He says, “if I ever had a good idea, it was this one.”
The vintage hunter divides his time between research, sales and consultation. In the report, he highlights the timeless nature of vintage: “When we get tired of it, we put it away, then we take it out again.” The French designer expert also discusses his growing interest in the beginnings of Italian ready-to-wear, notably Versace and Gianfranco Ferré.
Vintage reverses the rules of the market
Olivier Chatenet also addresses the economic aspect of the market. Unlike ready-to-wear, which quickly loses its value, the price of vintage increases on the second-hand market: “At the end of the season, a piece of clothing in a store is worth 50% less. In fact, the vintage one, the one we sell, the following year, it is worth 50% more,” he explains. Already in 2017, in an interview for France Info, the entrepreneur spoke of an explosion in the price of vintage: “in 10 years, prices have multiplied by 10”.
3. Sophia Elizabeth et “Spaghetti Archives”
Last stop, Place des Vosges, in 4e borough, at Spaghetti Archives, a studio founded in 2021 by Sophia Elizabeth. A former fan of upcycling, Sophia began her career by transforming men's clothing into feminine pieces. Over time, it evolved into collections (“drops”) and the sale of vintage clothing.
With its showroom by appointment, Sophia Elizabeth meets the growing demand of a demanding clientele looking for tailor-made vintage items. Among the pieces presented for Jeanne Damas, a hand-painted Dolce & Gabbana dress or an Alaïa reissue from the 1980s. The curator explains sourcing internationally: “When I go to Italy, I buy a lot of Italian brands, like Dolce, Cavalli. In Japan, I will buy Japanese brands. In France, it exploits word of mouth. “You have women who contact me to sell their wardrobes. They are between 45 and 60 years old. They have my number between them,” she explains.
In previous episodes of Vintage HotspotGaia Repossi, Italian jewelry designer, visits for French Vogueat Moji Farhat Vintage and Pretty Box in Paris. Model Camille Charrière passes by Portobello Road in London and visits One Of a Kind Archive, Karen Vintage, Rellik and Westay at Portobello Road Market.
Watch the Vintage Hotspot video, “Jeanne Damas in Paris”
