QWhen she showed her show in February 2024, no one – except her designer – knew that it would be Dries Van Noten’s last women’s collection. The emotion was undoubtedly palpable in the room. But, as always, the Flemish designer’s proposals always reflected a tension between couture and ready-to-wear, poetry and wearable, the most radical audacity and the most tender sweetness. And, in this final opus, there is, as it were, the memory of all the others. And it is in this light that Dries Van Noten agreed to return to some of these pieces: “I create words; those who carry them write sentences.” So let’s write!
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The chic of uncertainty “The woman I had in mind takes the initiative, doesn’t listen to others about how to behave. Hence the idea of a jersey sweatshirt: the material gives it a sculptural look. Zipped, it can be wrapped around the neck, as a collar or scarf, worn one sleeve or two. It is worn here with shorts. It is not the most feminine piece, a priori, but it is made of recycled polyester satin, which gives it a kind of couture luster. It is the idea of several pieces that, in one gesture – a knot, a drape that is created by zipping or unzipping – are transformed, come to life. Uncertainty is an interesting notion. Otherwise, the pieces are “too pretty”: you have to make these clothes your own, with a certain ease. J […] Read more
