Loewe offered a levitation session on Friday, with large floral dresses swinging on hoops, in a moment of grace suspended between the 18th and 21st centuries.
Jonathan Anderson, the 40-year-old artistic director who is unanimously acclaimed for each collection, has reinterpreted this structure from the end of the Renaissance, the crinoline with visible hoops wrapped in a fine dress like a veil which moves and breathes around the body.
The material comes out of the garment as if it were flying. “You have the structure, but at the same time the idea of something that is in constant movement,” the Northern Irish designer explained to the press after the show.
“We managed to find a way to make the structure light enough. It’s possible to achieve this tension with just two pieces of fabric,” he added.
For the evening, mini-dresses with sequins in cobalt blue, granite gray and iridescent shades, with matching micro-trousers.
There were also much more classic proposals for the former bag house: the biker jacket that transforms into a superhero cape, the cream-colored and flared pure leather pants.
In the audience, old acquaintances of Jonathan Anderson, such as Italian director Luca Guadagnino and actor Daniel Craig with his wife Rachel Weisz.
Jonathan Anderson also designed the costumes for Guadagnino’s next film, “Queer”, in which the former agent 007, the face of the label’s latest advertising campaign, experiences an intense gay romance.
– “Rooting” –
At Issey Miyake, the spring-summer 2024/2025 collection unfolded around the art of paper.
“A desire to root through touch,” explains designer Satoshi Kondo, head of the Japanese house based in Paris.
Chasuble dresses so fine that they seem to be able to tear at any moment, jackets made of “washi”, the traditional Japanese paper, are worn bare legs, like a poetic unfolded beige origami, from which emanates great purity.
Pants are hung with unexpected metal stationery clips.
The setting, the Japanese gardens of the floral park, immersed the public in a rare moment of zenitude, with natural music, sand on the ground and wind in the leaves of the trees behind large bay windows.
Issey Miyake’s ultra-thin bags, tied at each end, confirm the trend of the season: the soft XXL shoulder bag to carry on the back.
– Rage –
At Nina Ricci, the figure of the Lolita, in a polka dot outfit, large black glasses and the house’s emblematic black hat, comes and goes on the catwalk, without creating the wonder of the first and awaited collection by designer Haris Reed .
The Japanese Yamamoto played black and white, one of the other markers of this season when the Vetements label offered an anarchic parade of stars, including the rapper Travis Scott, Gigi Hadid in a DHL scotch dress or the actress Marcia Cross.
Finally, to end the day, Victoria Beckham treated herself to the prestigious setting of the Château de Bagatelle, in the Bois de Boulogne.
The ex-Spice Girl is still working to break her smooth image: here, women’s suits find themselves ripped off at the shoulders or split on one leg as if in excess of scissor rage.
More anticipated, the transparent nylon version dresses the evening, like the satin slip dress, in apple green or plum.
“Posh” (his nickname) did not escape his favorite palette, black, appearing at the end of the fashion show, in an impeccable shouldered suit, before hosting one of the most anticipated evenings of the week in this same castle, lit entirely by candlelight for the occasion.
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