It was one of the most anticipated events for fashionistas: the Frenchman Jacquemus made his return to Paris fashion week on Sunday after five years of absence with an intimate fashion show, bringing together an audience of stars.
François Civil, Audrey Tautou, Judith Godrèche, Carla Bruni-Sarkozy and even Pamela Anderson and the fashion popess Anna Wintour were among the hand-picked guests.
Organized at the start of the afternoon in the apartment of the architect Auguste Perret (1874-1954), a specialist in reinforced concrete, in the west of Paris, the parade will be broadcast via social networks at 7:30 p.m. (5:30 p.m. GMT).
“A show filmed entirely on the iPhone,” Simon Porte Jacquemus, his full name, warned at the beginning of the week.
However, a few images have already leaked, revealing a very sophisticated mixed collection worn by star models of the 1990s/2000s Christy Turlington and Eva Herzigova, as well as Liya Kebede and Doutzen Kroes.
Called “La Croisière”, this new line is made up of large flared dresses cinched at the waist with wide leather belts in a very 50s style, mermaid dresses, evening dresses worthy of the red carpet or dresses long striped ones, one of the designer's passions, who boasts his Provençal heritage.
The thirty-year-old also revisits the feminine pantsuit, with very loose pants matched with a very fitted jacket with shoulder pads. All worn with pumps with pointed toes and small heels.
The men are also very elegant, dressed in white suits marked at the waist, very loose or straight pleated pants and floor length pants, jacket and shorts sets or jumpsuits.
A collection which comes mainly in white, black and red, without forgetting a few touches of yellow, notably with a banana patterned dress.
– An expected return –
-This show marks Jacquemus' return to the official Fashion Week calendar. In recent years, the designer has had the habit of showing whenever and wherever he wants, whether in a lavender field in the South of France, in the park of the Palace of Versailles or even under the sun of Capri.
“It’s good that it is in man’s calendar, it allows him to give him a little more visibility on man, who is developing and growing,” rejoices Alice Feillard, director of Men's shopping at Galeries Lafayette.
A favorite of the celebrities, Simon Porte Jacquemus is also a favorite of the anonymous people who flocked in large numbers on Sunday afternoon to the demarcated fan zone in front of the parade venue, braving the rain and the cold.
Some were more resourceful than others, like Rahal Akram, 17, and Melvin Maitrias, 18, professional photography baccalaureate students met by AFP, who did not hesitate to borrow a stepladder at the local supermarket to strafe the stars more easily.
Once the show was over, the designer made an appearance at the window, haranguing the crowd who chanted “Simon, Simon, Simon!”.
Launched in 2009, the Jacquemus brand has enjoyed unprecedented success, driven by aggressive marketing and a community of loyalists. The company now has a store on Avenue Montaigne in Paris and one in the Soho district of New York.
Another highly anticipated event, the return of Lanvin on Sunday evening after two years of absence, with the first collection by Briton Peter Copping, appointed artistic director of the oldest French fashion house in June, closing this men's Fashion Week.
Haute Couture week will follow on Monday, a Parisian specificity, with headliners Dior, Chanel, Schiaparelli and even the return of Valentino.
