Ten years ago, this would undoubtedly have been seen as a provocation, perhaps even an affront. In Bordeaux, the wine capital, the opening of the very first alcohol-free wine store today fills a gap that other metropolises such as Nantes, Lille and of course Paris have filled for months or even years. Belles grapes, its little name which invites patented delicacies without the slightest intoxication, is due to open its doors at the end of October in the Saint-Christoly shopping center, whose regeneration and new brands hope to bring new life.
But how did this crazy idea of offering alcohol-free wines, beers or spirits come about? A priori, Anne and Alexandre Kettaneh, wine enthusiasts, did not intend to launch this very specialized boutique in the heart of Bordeaux. She, who notably made a career in agricultural unionism, still wanted to “defend the winegrower profession”; he had experienced a “pleasure business” around cheeses and friends (L’Artisan du lait, in the 9e district of Paris). And then, these parents observed the trend among their children and new generations: an attraction for “no/low” (no or little alcohol) since almost a third of French people now say they consume it (1 ).
It’s a booming sector, the dynamic is palpable. “The idea came to us the day after New Year’s Eve, at the start of the year,” says Anne Kettaneh. We worked on it, the market study reassured us in our project. And we are not disappointed. We realize the incredible product variety and innovation present in this field. »
150 references
With around 150 references, more than half of which are from the South-West, the place invites new experiences and taste walks with a particular layout: visitors will wander around tasting moments (aperitif, short break, beer, earth, sea, vegetable or cocktails). Gins, rums, whiskeys and sodas will be to be discovered. All wine colors, with or without bubbles, will also be offered. “We can bring wine back into everyday consumption as was the case before and drink something that is part of the heritage, except that it is alcohol-free,” smiles Alexandre Kettaneh. Eight Bordeaux reds will notably be on the shelves.
“It’s a very creative market and it’s serious! continues Anne. The dealcoholized market should not be seen as a simple outlet. There is a lot of technique, equipment and thought involved in creating a tasty drink. » The couple hopes to strengthen fans and charm new audiences by organizing tasting times, workshops and more targeted offers to businesses. Belles clusters, also accessible on rue du Père-Louis-Jabrun, will be open from Tuesday to Saturday, and certainly a few Sundays in December.
(1) According to the Sowine barometer, 30% of French people declared consuming “no/low” drinks in 2023, including 45% of 18-25 year olds.
