Despite her departure 25 years ago, the employees of Lou Calen still address the founder and former owner of this hotel-restaurant nestled at the entrance to Cotignac with as much respect as ever. Huguette Caren.
After spending around thirty years in the establishment’s kitchen, the 91-year-old author reveals the secret of the recipes that made the place popular by publishing his book “Dishes that sing and tell Lou Calen”. It is available from December 21 at the hotel bookstore, then throughout France from March 2025.
A tribute to the restaurant steeped in history
The poppy lady, nicknamed in reference to her passion for these flowers, started cooking at a very young age: “ My mother died very young, at 37 years old. I found myself with a family of six to raise, I had to be behind the stove. » The local girl makes this obligation a real job when she transforms the hospice of the Sisters of Saint Vincent de Paule into a hotel-restaurant awarded by Gault et Millau in 1973, only two years after its opening.
In 1977, the Miraval recording studio opened 20 minutes from Cotignac. The village then becomes the equivalent of today’s Saint-Tropez. Renowned musicians, such as AC/DC, Sting, Maxime Le Forestier and Brigitte Bardotsettle into the 16 roomsof the hotel and taste its Provençal cuisine.
« I have a guestbook filled with autographs and anecdotes from people who have stayed here. I added them in the kitchen book » she congratulates herself. Marseille bouillabaisse, Provençal lasagna or even grandma Caren’s chicken marengo… more than 68 traditional recipes are listed with, associated with each, a funny or moving story.
« At home, I have a personal notebook with 138 recipes. So I have enough to write a second cookbook » she laughs. “ In the next one, I would like to tell the story of the soup made with all kinds of original fish. This comes from the fact that the fishmonger finished his tour at our place and sold us what was left! ».
A link between Lou Calen’s past and present
As she confidently crosses the Lou Calen property, which means oil lamp in Provençal, Huguette Caren immerses herself in her memories. “ I wanted the Municipality to inaugurate a place in the name of Joe Dassin, who got married in this hotel and built a property in the village. She never did so I renamed the garden in her honor and put a stall there. »
Spending an afternoon with Huguette Caren, we quickly discover her loyalty to her clients, who often become friends. They have never feared venturing into her house since, at her table, secrets are well kept. “ The restaurant is called Secret Garden because it is a place where customers can remain anonymous. I always asked celebrities if I could name them in front of journalists, if they refused, then I didn’t talk about it » confides the former manager.
In 1999, the entrepreneur had to close her establishment which no longer met standards. It remained abandoned until its taken over by Graham Porter fifteen years later who modernized it into an eco-responsible luxury hotel. « It makes me happy to see that this place is alive again » she smiled.
Today, Huguette Caren continues to come to the kitchens of the gourmet restaurant to provide assistance and expertise to chef Benoît Witz. Their chemistry is palpable: they are two passionate people who discuss, exchange advice, approve of each other.
To celebrate the release of the book, a Huguette special menu is planned by the restaurant on December 21. A signing session will take place the same day between 3 p.m. and 6 p.m. at the hotel bookstore.
