On Running: Federer’s not-so-durable sneakers

A high-risk factory in the heart of Marseille, workers paid below the subsistence wage in Vietnam, a recycling factory that does not recycle (yet)… This is what reveals an RTS investigation along the production line of a flagship On Running sneaker that aims to be green: the Cloudneo.

The Swiss star brand promises a new revolution in terms of sustainability in the world of running equipment. Among its latest innovations: a subscription shoe, made from castor beans, which claims to be fully recyclable and circular.

For 35 francs per month, the consumer receives a pair of sneakers made from biosourced materials, which they must use for a minimum of six months before exchanging them for a new pair. The old is thus recycled. And so on. But behind the marketing discourse of the Zurich company, the reality is more nuanced.

A factory at risk in Marseille

The RTS investigation reveals that the shoe is made from castor beans grown in India, crushed into oil before reaching Marseille, France. On Running went to find a petrochemical giant, the company Arkema, which says it is the only one that knows how to transform castor oil into a synthetic polymer, Rilsan.

This material central to the manufacture of the Cloudneo, which is nothing other than a plastic once transformed, is manufactured in a factory classified as Seveso high threshold, the maximum risk in industrial matters. The greatest potential danger, lethal, comes from a leak of heavy gas, needed in large quantities to turn castor oil into plastic.

To protect themselves, residents of the neighborhood have installed containment rooms in their homes. On this subject, the Zurich company defends itself as follows: “All partners with whom we work must respect our supplier code of conduct.”

In Vietnam, underpaid workers

The “Temps Present” investigation also reveals that the shoe is manufactured in Vietnam, in an industrial zone near Ho Chi Minh City. A worker says she has worked in the factory for three years and earns the equivalent of 216 francs per month. An amount far from the living wage, which, according to the Asian Coalition for the Fight against Poverty, would amount to around 450 francs in Vietnam to cover the basic needs of a family.

As a reminder, last January, the German-speaking magazine “K-Tipp” showed that On Running made greater profits per pair of shoes sold than its competitors. A difference which could be explained in particular by the fact that the brand pays its manufacturers less even though it sells its sneakers at higher prices.

As for the recycling of the Cloudneo promised by On Running at the end of the chain, it has not yet taken place, according to the RTS. The brand explains: “We collect the shoes and we are well on our way to starting the recycling process.” However, the sneaker has been on the market for two years, with a promise of infinite recycling.

The gap between the behind-the-scenes production of Cloudneo and the green marketing of the sportswear company raises questions. Nicolas Bueno, professor of international law at Unidistance interviewed by RTS, explains: “If the shoe is not entirely recyclable while the advertising clearly says that it is completely recyclable, we could be receiving information that is inaccurate. In this case, it could fall into the category of unfair competition.”

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