San Sebastian faces the challenge of an attractive quality-price ratio

San Sebastian, autumn 2024. The period is slow, like in France. And yet, most bistros remain open. The old town buzzes mainly with Castilian and Basque accents, an unusual occurrence in this French-speaking Basque enclave, where the popularity of pintxo would have ended up causing its price to rise.

That day, an old English couple maintained that “it remains very affordable”. The locals lean on the counters of the less welcoming stalls, where the appearance of the pintxo often justifies a lower than average price. Iban does not intend to pay “more than 3 euros for salmon croquettes or pintxos”. Alas, the price of the appetizer is more often around 4.50 euros. And sometimes goes up to 6 euros. The bite is worth it. “But that shouldn’t be the case,” Iban argues.

Since Covid

Pierre, a salesman in Paris, had only been to San Sebastian once before, five years ago. “As I remember it, it was cheaper,” he said. But prices are increasing everywhere, anyway.”

One evening of a match between Aviron and La Rochelle, at the top of rue Mayor, the plate of 8 pintxos, accompanied by 4 beers, was around 60 euros “compared to 40 a few years ago”, in the memory of Landes supporters . “I wonder if they don’t raise prices when there is an event,” asks Jérôme, a rower from Landes.

Quality

The director of the Kursaal casino, located on the street in question, does not share this opinion: “Only hotels have the possibility of practicing an evolving pricing policy. » Odon Elorza Brauer admits, however, that a change has occurred “since the Covid crisis”. “Tourists other than the French, like Americans or Germans, have arrived here,” he notes. This professionalized the pintxos offering. Previously there was only one owner per bar. Now, large groups have bought several of them. There has been a small increase in quality and, undoubtedly, also a small increase in prices. »

Ozon Elorza highlights the work carried out on quality local products, “which has a price”. And to affirm that we must also provide a response to a demanding clientele: “Many people from Dacquois, Bayonnais or Bordeaux know Saint-Sébastien by heart. They don't want to make a mistake. » Also, the casino director sometimes directs them towards other districts like Antiguo, Gros or Amara, where “the offer has become interesting”.

«and much more»

In other words, the attractiveness of many neighborhoods has increased. And everyone now finds themselves in competition, which helps avoid tourist overcrowding. So the decor has evolved in the old town, where pintxo bars certainly remain legion. There are now sushi bars, Mexican street food corners, kebabs and other cannabis shops… “Y mucho mas” (“much more”, Editor's note), as many storefronts assure.

Here, the Sports Bar, rue Fermin Calbeton, is crowded despite a sluggish schedule. Despite its old-fashioned appearance, it holds its own with a plate of 4 tasty pintxos, accompanied by a glass of txakoli, at 19 euros. Other addresses compete, which it is better to know to avoid cheap surimi.

Hygiene and good addresses

Rue Portu, in Baztan, each pintxo is flanked by a number to place an order. And all of them are hidden behind glass, to better block the path of spittle. This equipment has become more or less widespread and creates “a slightly less messy atmosphere, but therefore a little less nice”, according to this group of Basque friends. Here, the service is correct, like the plate and the bill. And when you leave the establishment, a sign thanks you for your visit in 12 languages.

However, neither sanitization nor folklore prevents good deals. There is foie gras à la plancha from Casa Bartolo, monkfish pintxo from Ganbara, mushrooms from Tamboril, seafood bites from Martinez or even skewers from Goiz-Argi.

Awarded the second highest concentration of Michelin stars in the world, with high-sounding names like Elena Arzak, Aita Orkolaga or Martín Berasategui (in Lasarte, right next door), San Sebastián continues the fun with just as much of mastery. With what impact on prices? The Tourist Office, which offers its “pintxos route”, does not have official figures to measure it. To avoid too high a bill, locals and tourists seem, for their part, a little more vigilant than before.