Abandoned for years, this sweet white wine is coming back to the forefront. Brought up to date by sommeliers and inventive chefs, it has even become a star ingredient in mixology.
To surprise your friends, offer them a glass of Sauternes on ice, garnished with orange zest, as an aperitif. Say “It’s a Sweetz!” » and let them wonder. “But, please, don’t serve it with foie gras, we have confined Sauternes too much in this box,” regrets Romain Iltis, wine director of the Lalique group, one of whose establishments is none other than the Château Lafaurie-Peyraguey, Premier Grand Cru Classé of Sauternes. This estate offers cocktails and unexpected combinations in order to democratize the image of these sweet wines. Certainly, they remain the most prestigious whites in the world.
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The proof with Château d’Yquem, whose bottles are worth hundreds of euros for recent vintages, and tens of thousands for old bottles, this nectar having extraordinary aging potential. But are these crazy prices the only obstacles to their consumption? “No, because there are very good, affordable Sauternes,” replies Marie Wodecki, best young sommelier in France in 2023. You just have to choose the second wines from the great estates, like the Soleil d’Arche 2022 vintage (around 24 euros) or the Carmes de Rieussec 2018 (around 20 euros). I would rather cite a form of disenchantment with Bordeaux wines and the growing distrust of sugar,” she continues.
An aromatic complexity
This subject provokes a reaction from Hugo Combe, co-owner of Le Classique, a bar which creates cocktails combining wines and spirits. “All alcohols are full of sugar,” he explains, “even if you don’t taste it. What must be highlighted in Sauternes is their aromatic complexity, which is fascinating to work with in cocktails, even if it is still a crime of lèse-majesté for certain sommeliers. In our Penicillin, we combine Château Guiraud with lemon, honey, ginger and Espelette pepper. »
And it’s the bomb! Just like Marie Wodecki’s “mojito”, which combines Sauternes with crushed raspberries, mint and crushed ice. But the most surprising thing is the food and wine pairings of Jérôme Schilling, at the Lalique restaurant at Château Lafaurie-Peyraguey. Double-starred and best worker in France, this chef recommends trying Sauternes with oysters, curry lamb or roast chicken with garlic. At your table, you can enjoy it with lobster with verbena, sweetbreads with celery, coffee and liquorice, or beef tartare with candied egg, truffle and Comté cheese. A delicious revolution in the cozy world of Bordeaux grand crus.
AGREEMENTS TO ADOPT
The return of Sauternes.
© Courtesy Château Lafaurit Lalique
In “raw” mode
A carpaccio of scallops with olive oil and orange zest. The right bottle: Les Charmilles de la Tour Blanche 2021 for its notes of jasmine and mandarin. 26 euros, 75 cl, boutique.tour-blanche.com
Version spicy
Roasted salmon with tandoori spices. The right bottle: La Chapelle de Lafaurie-Peyraguey 2019. Its notes of honey and white fruits enhance the flavors of the dish. 28 euros, 75 cl, lafauriepeyragueylalique.com
As a dessert wine
A dark chocolate and Timut pepper mousse. The right bottle: Château de Fargues 2009, a nectar with the scent of Alcohol abuse is dangerous for your health. Consume in moderation. honey and citrus zest. 84 euros, 37.5 cl, maisondusauternes.com
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