Arnaud Laplanche comes from the world of sommellerie. He retraces his journey: “The cellar has existed for 40 years, we took it over with my wife Sandrine in 2018. Historically, it was a lot of bulk, we continued with a few references, it represents little volume, but it’s nice to the regulars. I was head sommelier at the hotel-restaurant La Côte Saint-Jacques in Joigny, with chef Michel Lorain, I stayed there for more than 17 years. Sandrine was a housekeeper, we worked together. We wanted to return to family life and I wanted to work for myself. We started with the cellar’s stock and then, little by little, we selected the wines we liked. I had seen the rebirth of the Côte Saint-Jacques vineyard, Michel Lorain was very involved in this rebirth. Today, we offer wines from the Alain Vignot estate. We play the game of regional vineyards, Côtes-d’Auxerre, Chablis, Chitry, Saint-Bris, Colanges-la-Vineuse. »
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What do you drink with mushroom soup?
Pairings with a mushroom velouté by Arnaud Laplanche: “I was a sommelier in a gourmet restaurant, I like cooking, imagining quite sophisticated dishes. I prepare this mushroom soup with a little shallot, a touch of garlic and crème fraîche. For an original note, I add, to the velouté, thin slices of lightly fried Vire andouille and a drizzle of truffle oil. A seasonal dish that goes just as well with a white wine as with a not too powerful red. »
The bottle around 10 euros
Domaine M. Martin 2022, burgundy coulanges-la-vineuse, €10.
“A fruity red Burgundy, very tender, a real wine of pleasure which does not lack complexity, between fruity notes and a spicy touch. The pairing is very delicious. The Vire andouille cut into very thin slices goes well with the delicate tannins of the wine. »
L’accord original
Olivier Morin, Constance 2022, chitry burgundy, €15.50.
“Also in the region, a pleasant chardonnay, lively, mineral and very aromatic. It is expressive, with floral and fruity notes. It is a delicate wine, aged in vats to maintain freshness, but smooth enough to provide a tone-on-tone and balanced pairing with the dish. »
The wine merchant’s favorite
Pauline Pabiot, Le Coteau 2023, pouilly smoked, €14.
“To get out of the region, an estate which is one of the cellar’s historic wines. Based on the Sauvignon grape variety, it is rather structured and offers a lot of freshness, which contrasts with the creaminess of the velouté and the touch of fat brought by the andouillette. »
Their philosophy:
“We rely on one thing first: the pleasure we take in tasting when we are looking for new wines! Then, we make a point of offering a lot of wines at affordable prices, then slightly more sought-after, high-end wines. They can be organic and we also have some natural wines, but that is not a selection criterion. We have evolved towards a large range of wines from the department. Faced with inflation in the Côte-d’Or vineyards, Yonne wines are on the rise. The price range is 10/15 euros. Of course, if we advise and talk about our favorites, customers let themselves be guided… for that, my reputation as a sommelier helps a lot. »
Their proposal:
“We have around 900 references. We highlight the wines of the region with 70% for Burgundy, then 10% champagnes, 10% wines from Bordeaux and 10% for other regions, including the Rhône valley, Alsace, Beaujolais. There is also a demand for spirits, rums, whiskeys and white spirits. We complete with wine accessories such as glasses, carafes, corkscrews and a little delicatessen, spreads for the aperitif. We have a large clientele of Parisians. At the start of the week, we mainly see local customers and, from Friday, we switch to Parisian customers who are looking for wines for the weekend and buying bottles that they bring back to Paris. In Toucy, we have a very nice market on Saturdays. It has been twice classified as “the most beautiful market in France”, which attracts a lot of people. Every first Saturday of the month, we offer a tasting led by a winemaker. We also organize tastings on request. We introduce five wines, three whites and two reds, with a presentation of the appellation, plus food and wine pairings. »
To Discover
Kangaroo of the day
Answer
The Cave of Toucy
660, avenue du Général-de-Gaulle
Toucy (89)
03 86 44 20 20
Hours: Tuesday to Saturday from 9 a.m. to 7 p.m., Sunday from 9 a.m. to 12 p.m.
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