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Chanel spring/summer 2025 show: what to see

Chanel is writing a new chapter, in the freshness of a new era.

Muslin capes for urban superheroes, jackets with extrapolated volumes, tweed short sets: the collection inspires youth, is anchored in the history of the great pioneers, with jackets and aviator suits. Slit skirts and elevated shiny sandals too, to drive the future.

After 9 days of a lively fashion week, rich in surprises, enchantments and sometimes “déjà vu but why not”, the small world of fashion and the larger one too, had their eyes turned towards the highly anticipated Chanel show. The first collection presented by the studio after the departure of Virginie Viard has the potential to appeal to all generations: it perpetuates the codes of elegance and know-how of the House, interprets its iconic materials – tweed, muslin, leather, silk – and offers a line of highly desirable accessories. Literally: platform shoes will be the flagship models of the season.

For the first time since 2020 after major renovation work supported by sponsorship from Chanel, the Grand Palais was able to host the always spectacular show orchestrated by the Belgian company Villa Eugénie. Now, the main entrance to the historic building is called Gabrielle Chanel, and under the monumental Art Nouveau glass roof to present this new season of timeless luxury, guest seats snaked around a masterful (open) cage, a tribute to the countryside advertising for Coco in 1992, where a still-baby Vanessa Paradis rocked like a boob. The architecture of the nave and that of the cage were in dialogue, intertwined, telling the story of time and freedom.

On the models, the airy pastel knit caressed the skin and structured the movements, while a black knitted skirt responded to the architecture of the vault of the Grand Palais. The quilted bag of course has been revisited, with reinvented proportions; a touch of the second degree was sewn into the precious linings. Chanel flies away, from her symbolic swing, towards her next spring.

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