The characteristic chic chic of knives that are sharpened. Regular cuts. The edge of a saw. In the back room of the Despi butcher's shop, at the Grand Frais store, Florence Magnien, 25 years old and already assistant manager, has been busy since 6 a.m. Under her expert hands: the carcass of a lamb that she cuts up before taking the pieces into the cold room.
“I was alone in the middle of ten, twelve boys”
The only butcher, she concedes that “it’s still a men’s job. I noticed it as early as my butcher's certificate. I was alone in the middle of ten, twelve boys. » Same observation for his professional butcher and charcuterie-caterer certificate. Even today, she remains alone among four male colleagues. “There are still a lot of prejudices. When I'm in the sales position, people ask to see the butcher to cut the chaperones. Which, as a butcher, I do very well! »
And she would never have imagined herself anywhere else: “I grew up in this environment. I am the daughter of a farmer, a cow breeder from Saint-Laurent-d'Andenay. I knew the butcher who came to cut meat on the farm. » She still remembers her first carcass, ten years ago, at the start of her studies: “Pork. It's the cheapest way to get started. »
“It’s a profession that has a future. We will always eat meat”
The products and species are varied with arrivals up to four times a week. “It’s very interesting to be able to work on the pieces from start to finish and see the finished product. When you buy a beef steak, you don't always know what it has gone through or how it has been processed. My favorite thing is to peel the meat. It's thorough. » You have to see her work: concentrated, leaning over the carcass, the precise blade, the thin slices. She quickly removes the fat that she puts on the sides to keep only the good flesh, without waste. “Even if the work of the products is very codified, it remains varied. The holidays are coming. We work with poultry that we are not used to, such as chaperones, or whole turkeys. » At the counter, from 9 a.m., customers are already there. “It’s a profession that has a future,” she believes, confidently. We will always eat meat, even if it will surely be different. Less, but better. »
“Giving women the desire to do this job”
Last month, Florence Magnien took part in the second Conference on Artisanal Butchery, organized by the French Butchery Confederation. These meetings highlighted women. “And give women the desire to do this job,” she explains. I went to Paris for training and the big day.” With her sisters from all over France, she had to prepare several pieces on site. “I had a rear quarter of lamb and a rump steak that I had to decorate. We all helped each other to make beautiful things. This experience opened doors for me and enriched me personally. »
Landmark
▶ Despi, national butchery subsidiary since 1993. Au Creusot since 2007. ▶ Located in an industrial zone, rue d'Harfleur. ▶ 5 butchers (4 butchers and 1 apprentice) and 2 saleswomen.
▶ Tel. 03.85.55.64.37.
▶ Open Monday to Saturday, 8:30 a.m. to 7:30 p.m.
France