According to a recent British study, science previously thought of waves only in two dimensions. It was therefore important to update human knowledge on this subject. The researchers then affirmed that the size of rogue waves has always been underestimated.
More than a hundred meters high
As a reminder, rogue waves are colossal ocean waves which can reach the height of a ten-story building. However, we generally speak of a rogue wave when a wave at least twice as high as the surrounding swell forms. Representing a significant risk for maritime navigationthey could also impact oil platforms or even offshore wind farms.
Researchers from the University of Oxford (United Kingdom) published work in the journal Nature on September 18, 2024, including results sound like a warning. While the oldest research on rogue waves suggests a maximum height of around thirty meters, British scientists speak instead of an amplitude up to four times greater, or approximately 120 meters.
To reach this conclusion, the researchers built a tank that can generate waves from multiple directions. Produced in 3D, they were similar to those usually found in the oceans.
A better understanding of rogue waves
The researchers said that previously, research used 2D data. However, this does not leave no choice but to ignore certain forcesand therefore make incorrect calculations. Indeed, the ocean is indeed in 3D and the physics of waves is very complex. Furthermore, while the first work on 3D waves was carried out in poorly functional square basins, the British researchers this time used a circular basin. Encased in 168 wave generators, this pool made it possible to produce simulations very close to reality.
“Our observations call into question the validity of state-of-the-art methods used to calculate energy dissipation and to design offshore structures in seas with strong directional distribution”we can read in the study. Initially, this novelty made it possible to correct some misconceptionsparticularly with regard to how and when waves eventually break. More broadly, the evolution of knowledge of rogue waves could be useful to engineers in the context of design of more resistant structures to the forces at work.
Towards a new era of understanding rogue waves
Recent discoveries about rogue waves open a new chapter in understanding the oceans. By moving from a two-dimensional approach to three-dimensional modeling, researchers have revealed surprising truths about the size and power of these extreme phenomena. These advances highlight gaps in traditional methods of forecasting and designing maritime infrastructure.
This new understanding does not just correct scientific hypotheses: it has crucial practical implications. Maritime shipping, oil platforms, and offshore wind farms must now integrate this data to protect themselves against risks that have been underestimated until now. By pushing the boundaries of research, scientists offer a unique opportunity to design more robust structures and improve safety at sea.
While the oceans remain an indomitable force, this work reminds us that science, constantly evolving, is our best ally in anticipating and adapting to the power of nature.
