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Fashion and sport: when style is played out on all terrains

The origins of sports fashion date back to Antiquity. In ancient Greece, athletes often competed naked, a custom that exalted the body and maximized freedom of movement. Physical activities were an integral part of Greek culture, especially with the Olympic Games where strength, speed and agility were celebrated. The idea of ​​performance optimized by clothing did not appear until much later.

From the end of the 18th century, the aristocracy appreciated practicing outdoor physical activities, such as horse riding or archery. But these practices are accompanied by strict dress codes, far removed from comfort and flexibility.

It was not until the 19th century that the word “sport” took on the meaning we know it today. The wealthy classes take up new sports, such as or golf, but continue to wear elegant and bulky clothes. As in their daily lives, women wear corsets and long skirts. On the other hand, the new team sports, which quickly became popular despite their elitist origin (football, rugby) provide an opportunity to wear outfits finally adapted to movement. The jersey jersey and cleat shoes are among these first adaptations.



Englishwoman archery, HICKS George Elgar (after), 1867. — © 2010 / Musée de l’archerie et du Valois / Christian Schryve

The 20th century: the functional on the front line

In the first half of the 20th century, the sporting world grew in popularity, not only as an activity but also as a spectacle. With the creation of international competitions such as the modern Olympic Games, attention to athletes’ attire intensified. We seek to improve performance through clothing designed specifically for each sporting discipline.

The 1920s and 1930s saw the emergence of the first clothing specifically designed for sports. The tracksuit, which as its name suggests, is worn over clothes, is popular for warming up and recovering after exercise. Sport is gradually becoming a leisure activity accessible to a wider population. T-shirts and shorts are the uniform.

At the same time, certain athletes began to receive a lot of media attention. Suzanne Lenglen, the French tennis champion dressed by the great fashion designer Jean Patou, embodies a new sporting aesthetic, made of elegance and comfort. Thanks to the craze for sport and its celebrities, haute couture now offers a “sport” style, more casual but still as refined.



Antwerp Olympic Games 1920, Women’s Tennis, Suzanne Lenglen (FRA), Olympic champion in singles and mixed doubles. — © 1920 / International Olympic Committee (IOC)

Materials and performance: the synthetic revolution

After the Second World War, the industrialization of textiles and petrochemicals opened the way to new materials that revolutionized sports clothing. The 1960s and 1970s saw the arrival of synthetic textiles such as polyester, nylon and especially elastane. These materials are light, elastic, and allow better perspiration management. Elastane provides a tight-fitting garment that follows the movements of the body without constraining it. Swimming and then gymnastics quickly took advantage of these new possibilities.

This technical advance coincides with the emergence of fitness culture. From the end of the 1970s, the sculpted body in the gym and in aerobics classes became an ideal to achieve. Neon-colored leggings and bodysuits accompany this movement, as do branded sneakers adapted to each discipline. Sportswear is leaving theaters to invade wardrobes, marking the beginnings of the fusion between sport and fashion. The tracksuit, for its part, takes on ambivalent meanings, both proposed by major luxury houses and adopted by rebellious hip-hop culture.



Ken Super Sport 2 – 1983. — © 2008 / Les Arts Décoratifs

1990s and 2000s: sport becomes trendy

The 1990s marked a new stage for sportswear. The growing popularity of streetwear, influenced by urban cultures, makes sports style a symbol of youth and protest. Brands like Nike, Adidas and Fila are becoming fashion icons, especially in cities, where their logos and sneakers are seen everywhere. Sportswear becomes a sign of cultural belonging.

In the 2000s, this influence strengthened with collaborations between luxury brands and equipment manufacturers. Partnerships like the one between Adidas and designer Yohji Yamamoto, who together founded the Y-3 brand, show that sportswear now has its place in official fashion. The culture of performance and well-being is becoming a lasting part of morals, and sports clothing is becoming symbols of success, dynamism and self-discipline.



Soho – Cyd Jouny – 1993. — © 2006 / Les Arts Décoratifs

“Athleisure”: everyday fashion inspired by sport

In recent years, the trend athleisure is growing at full speed. This style, which mixes sportswear and everyday fashion, highlights the search for comfort and versatility. Leggings, hoodies and sneakers are today worn as much for sport as for everyday life. Dress codes have evolved, and sportswear is now accepted in contexts once reserved for formal attire.

This trend is also propelled by renowned athletes, who have become true fashion icons, like the Williams sisters. They collaborate with brands or found their own labels to create collections combining fashion and performance. Sportswear is no longer content to be practical, it has become symbols of positive values ​​associated with competition: perseverance, surpassing oneself or even team spirit.



Look No 6 – Sweater and pants set, JW Anderson Men’s collection, spring-summer 2023. — © 2022 / JW Anderson

From the stadium to the fashion podium, from the catwalk to the field

By examining the connections between these two seemingly opposing universes, the exhibition Fashion and sport, from one podium to another highlights how sportswear, initially designed to meet functional needs, became essential pieces of fashion, lastingly influencing styles across generations.

We also discover that fashion has never ceased to influence the clothing worn for sporting activity, from the chic tennis of the 19th century to Andre Agassi in denim and fluorescent colors on the clay court. Sport and fashion now merge to meet the performance and style demands of our time. Each area benefits from the positive values ​​carried by the other. More than a choice of appearance, sports clothing today embodies universal values, such as freedom of movement, innovation and modernity.



Virgil Abloh for Louis Vuitton, LV Trainer Sneaker, Fall-winter 2021-2022 — © 2021 / Louis Vuitton

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