Undisputed Fashion photograph far beyond Italian borders, Gian Paolo Barbieri (1935 – 2024) dazzled by its ability to Sublimate beauty in all its forms. From his beginnings to Milan in the 1960s to his ethnographic explorations of the decades later, he knew how to combine Sophistication, daring and technical To become one of the most influential photographers of his time.
Disappeared on December 17, 2024 at the age of 89 ansGian Piano Barbers Luisse Derrère him timeless artistic heritage.
Gian Paolo Barbieri, the fashion image for destiny
Born in Milan in 1935 in a Family of textile tradersGian Paolo Barbieri shows himself from an early age beauty and at the fall of the matter but first heads for the theater. Actor, operator or costume designer, his first experiences refine his eye. It is however before sophistication and Mystery of American actresses Black films that he really moves.
Completely self -taughthe imagines several ways to use and arrange lights to manage to recreate these unique light capable of magnify feminine beauty. It’s decided: it will be fashion photographer.
The Milanese studio, address of La Dolce Vita
In the early 1960s, Gian Paolo Barbieri won Paris where he became the assistant for a short period Tom Kublin for writingHarper’s Bazaar. Unfortunately the photographer died a few days after Barbieri’s arrival. The event renews it towards Milan where it Opened his first photo studio in 1964. He realizes there Fashion shoots for the Italian pressespecially for Novelty which will be renamed Vogue Italia Two years later.
International editions of the magazine Voguefounded by Condé Nast, soon calls on his talent. Gian Paolo Barbieri quickly forges a good reputation in fashion photography. Fashion editor, fashion houses and actors quickly become regulars of the Barbieri studiofrom the extravagant Diana Vreeland to Audrey Hepburn via Chanel.
Italian claws such as Armani, Versace, Dolce & Gabbana, Bulgari, Gianfranco Ferre or Valentino call on him for their advertising campaigns and their catalogues. Italian sewing lives its best hours and Gian Paolo Barbieri is the predilection portrait painter, promoting the made in Italy and its influence Around the world. But the 80s also lead it to more international collaborations Alongside Vivienne Westwood, Chanel or Yves Saint-Laurent.
London 1998
Saint Laurent, Parigi
1988
From fashion to ethnography
In the 90s, Gian Paolo Barbieri diverted partly from fashion to go to the world and its diversity, far from the studios flashes. Cultures, objects and landscapes attracting his gaze are seized by the Ethnologist improvised photographer who will share his images in several Photo books become real references.
If natural light and outdoor shooting conditions differ radically from its habits, its photographs share a same sense of perfection and elegance that his fashion photos. Bold contrasts, graphics, and careful light games remain the essence of Barbieri style.
In 2006, the jeweler Pomellato published SUDa book bringing together photos taken in Sicily by Gian Polo Barbieri. The photographer deploys a panel of images capturing the beauty and spontaneity of the island, from its volcanic landscapes to its young bathers, far from the studios models.
In his images studioses cinephotographs associating fixed and mobile images as in its travel diariesthe same Aesthetic obsession for the body. Male male and erotic female are celebrated and underlined by light games, vegetable shadows or the presence of animals whose contours are cut on the unique skin.
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Touched everything, in love with shapes and colors, Gian Paolo Barbieri had published in 2015 a Book of photographs devoted to the beauty of flowers. A way of testifying to his poetry and his love of nature, but also of his Innate sense of composition and its technical mastery.
Gian Paolo Barbieri, a multiple and imperishable heritage
Distinguished in 1968 by the German weekly Stern As one of the 14 best fashion photographers, Gian Paolo Barbieri was awarded the International prize for best fashion photographer in 2018.
His images were published in one of the most prestigious fashion magazines and exhibited in a multitude of international cultural institutions. The Victoria & Albert’s Museum, the National Portrait Gallery from London or the Quai Branly are one of those who have hosted its images. In 2022, a documentary Man and beauty had been devoted to him.
In 2016, the photographer had established a fondation On his behalf he was now dedicated. Installed in Milan, the Gian Paolo Barbieri Foundation works at promote photographic culture and young image talents.
Far from being limited to the commercial aspect of fashion photography, Barbieri invited his creations a Rare artistic depth. His shots bear witness to a subtle balance between sophistication and extravagancebetween overflowing creativity and technical precision. His eccentric style, sometimes theatrical, was flirting with the avant-garde while honoring Italian aesthetic traditions, thus contributing to Redefine codes fashion photography.
Its ability to combine creativity, elegance and innovation offered a Unique look at the fashion worldmaking each image a work of art in its own right. This singular style has not only marked the history of photography, but has also inspired a multitude of contemporary photographers, who continue to see in him A master of staging and light.
Disappeared on December 17, 2024 at 89, a few days before the death of his compatriot Oliviero ToscaniGian Paolo Barbieri leaves behind a fascinating corpus of a timeless beauty.
