Dermatologist at CHL, Florence Bourlond deciphers skincare trends on social networks

“We see and hear all kinds of things in consultations,” admits Florence Bourlond. Dermatologist at the Luxembourg Hospital Center, she welcomes young and old to guide them in the care they give to their skin. “A large proportion of consultations do not relate to vital illnesses. On the other hand, I systematically answer questions relating to cosmetics,” says the doctor.

Impossible, therefore, for Florence Bourlond to ignore the trends relating to skincare which are all the rage on social networks. If she does not have a TikTok account, the practitioner stays up to date by regularly consulting YouTube, Instagram or Facebook. “It’s part of the job,” concedes the dermatologist, who encourages her patients to discuss the subject freely. “It’s a very good thing to dare to speak, to ask questions of your doctor, when you are not sure about certain practices that you can see on the internet.”

Dermaplaning, beef fat and coconut oil

Among these practices, some are more harmless than others, warns the skin expert. Florence Bourlond immediately points out that she “does not forbid anything” from her patients, but rather seeks to raise their awareness and advise them without judging them. “The idea is to listen to the patient, because the more information they give us, the more we can guide them in their use of certain products,” continues the dermatologist.

In vogue on TikTok, the dermaplaninghe is not a product. It is a practice of using a scalpel, or razor blade on one’s face to get rid of dead skin and hair. “I would say be careful with dermaplaning. A scar quickly arrived and it stays for life. The same results can be achieved otherwise, with creams for example,” says the dermatologist.

Beef fat, donkey milk, coconut oil or even vaseline, the use of fat to nourish the epidermis is recommended in all its forms online. “I have nothing against these products being used on the body for moisturizing purposes. On the other hand, once applied to the face, they tend to suffocate the skin. Products that are too greasy can also promote acne,” warns Florence Bourlond.

The question of sunscreen

When it comes to sunscreen, social networks say everything and the opposite. While some influencers highlight the benefits of daily protection, others are anti-sun creams, pleading that they are made up of additives that are dangerous for the skin. “Putting on sunscreen every day or almost every day is not dangerous, it is even recommended for people who spend time outdoors, especially if they have a history of skin cancer. We often advise our patients to opt for a day cream with sun protection factor.”

“From a scientific point of view, the one and only thing that has proven effectiveness against wrinkles and signs of skin aging is sunscreen,” recalls Florence Bourlond. The trend of facetapingon the other hand, turns out to be much less effective. The practice consists of applying tape to the face in order to reduce wrinkles. “I advise against it, because it is useless,” simply replies the CHL dermatologist. “Wrinkles are located in the dermis, the middle layer of the skin. The tape is placed on the epidermis and is therefore of no use.” Worse, the facetaping can even lead to irritation or even allergies to the glue.

Glue, garlic and scrubs

Whether it’s garlic or lemon, the benefits of several natural products are regularly touted on TikTok and Instagram. But should you really rub garlic cloves on your face? “I cannot rely on any medical factor to prohibit this practice, because it is not dangerous. But it remains useless,” says the dermatologist.

To get rid of their blackheads, some influencers engage in a curious practice: that of using glue to remove them. Florence Bourlond is far from recommending this. “Cleansing products, scrubs or masks, several products exist to remove blackheads. The glue remains chemical and risks damaging the skin,” warns the dermatologist.

Scrubs, in fact, are recommended by other social media stars who even favor their daily use. Although the professional has never consulted patients for this reason, she indicates that irritations, or even eczema, could occur in the event of overuse of this type of product.

Listening and sharing

Regardless of the trends, it is ultimately the exchange between the dermatologist and her patients that takes precedence. “If patients feel listened to, they dare to speak and show the care they carry out on their skin. Listening without judgment is essential, because when we are a doctor, we also have a role in educating our patients. There is no such thing as a stupid question,” insists the skin expert.

Exchange between practitioners is also important. “There are three dermatologists at CHL and we talk a lot about trends and routines. We know that social networks are there and we cannot oppose them. We must accept this and guide our patients towards trends that are not harmful.”

Asked about the accounts to follow in terms of skin health, the dermatologist regretfully indicates that there are “very few accounts safe currently on the networks. Rather than finding information by following web personalities, Florence Bourlond recommends consulting professional sites on the subject. “I think we should stop complaining about medfluenceurs e“We should rather take our place on social networks, to be listened to by young people and advise them,” believes the expert. While waiting to become TikTok stars, the door to the offices of CHL dermatologists is always open in case of questions about one or another trend.