Renowned as the symbol of luxury and modernity in Dakar, the Almadies, once prized by local and international elites, are today going through an unprecedented economic and social crisis. This district, once considered a jewel of the Senegalese capital, now gives the image of a disorganized and declining area, invaded by shanty towns, precarious populations, bankrupt restaurants, hotels denuded of their tourist customers, lively evenings and room for gendarmes, customs officers in uniform and municipal agents in the streets at night…
The houses under construction, scattered throughout the neighborhood, are occupied by indigenous families in precarious living conditions. Despite several attempts, the Ngor-Almadies town hall has not been able to provide official data on this population which seems to be settling in without control. This informal urbanization is accompanied by a proliferation of talibés, beggars and women with children and babies under six months old, forced to beg all along the main road, from the Virage area to the rond -point of Almadies.
Paradoxically, the district remains a hotspot for high-end real estate investments. Luxury buildings continue to emerge at a breakneck pace, in a context of national economic crisis marked by galloping inflation. However, this real estate frenzy seems disconnected from the socio-economic realities on the ground.
The deterioration of the neighborhood also extends to the tourist sector. Once the heart of nightlife and high-end activities, Almadies seems to be losing its appeal. According to Ndiaga Diop, manager of a local lounge bar, attendance at establishments has dropped drastically in recent months.
“We invested four years ago, but this year is a real disaster. Even by contacting our former customers and vacationers, we cannot fill the tables. »
In addition to the drop in customers, Ndiaga says he is burdened by a significant tax adjustment, forcing his establishment to throw away stocks of uneaten food, due to a lack of customers because he was forced to redo a new menu increasing prices given the high cost of food. foodstuffs and the increase in customs taxes on alcoholic beverages. A trend confirmed by several hotels in the area, where managers report a clear decrease in reservations since September. They attribute this desertion to the high cost of living in Dakar and tense political conditions.
“This year, many of our clients preferred Gambia or Abidjan, where stays are more affordable and regulations are less restrictive,” confides a hotel manager.
This information is corroborated by tourists interviewed at sites like the Fathala reserve, who chose to stay in Gambia while including Senegal in their itinerary.
Senegal, once a leading destination for foreign tourists, now seems to be losing ground to its neighbor, the Gambia. Many vacationers who, in the past, stayed in popular areas such as Almadies or Saly, now choose to settle down in Banjul.
Testimonies collected from tourists encountered at the Fathala reserve confirm this trend. Two of them explain: “This year, we chose to stay in Gambia. We included in our program a visit to the Fathala reserve and the Saloum islands, but we return to Banjul for the rest of the stay. In Dakar, life is much too expensive, and the political atmosphere is worrying. In Gambia, with the dalasi, you spend less while enjoying a more relaxed vacation. »
This tourist migration can be explained by several factors. The costs of staying in Dakar, considered exorbitant, weigh heavily on travelers’ budgets. Added to this are stricter regulations in Senegal, particularly in terms of administrative formalities, which discourages some vacationers.
“With the geographical proximity of the two countries, the Gambia offers an attractive alternative, allowing you to visit the tourist sites of Senegal while avoiding local constraints,” specify regulars.
This dynamic is confirmed by professionals in the hotel sector in Dakar. Several large hotels in Almadies have reported a drastic drop in reservations since September. They attribute this phenomenon to the competitiveness of the Gambian offer, but also to a progressive disenchantment of international tourists.
“Our Gambian colleagues tell us that this year, Banjul is experiencing a large number of people. Meanwhile, here, the rooms remain empty,” laments a sales director.
This flight of tourists to the Gambia represents an alarm signal for the Senegalese tourist economy, already weakened by the general decline in purchasing power and political uncertainty.
Back to Almadies by night…
The festive nights of Almadies are now a thing of the past. Nightclubs and restaurants, once crowded, are struggling to attract loyal customers. On the sidewalks, sex workers also complain about the scarcity of tourists. Line, one of them, laments:
“There are no more customers, even the nightclubs are empty. We fall back on the sidewalks to try to attract some of them. »
Actors in the informal economy are not spared. Mother Astou, a sugar cane seller for 30 years at the Almadies roundabout, expresses her dismay. “Today, I only sold for 2,300 FCFA. I struggle to pay my rent and feed my family. »
Economic difficulties do not spare investors in Almadies, formerly attracted by the bustling neighborhood. Aziz, owner of two well-established restaurants, is preparing to permanently close his establishments at the end of December.
“The atmosphere is no longer there. Customers are rare, even on weekends when we were usually overwhelmed. The costs have become unsustainable, and tax adjustments have only made the situation worse. After the remaining two weeks, I’m packing up. 2025 will find me elsewhere, in a country where I can invest more peacefully. »
Aziz remains evasive about his future destination, but he says he has spotted more attractive opportunities abroad. His testimony illustrates a growing trend, the exodus of entrepreneurs towards economic environments perceived as more stable and favorable to investment.
This decision reflects not only the local economic deterioration but also a lack of prospects for private operators who, in the past, contributed to the dynamism of the district.
The decline of Almadies reflects a broader crisis affecting the tourism economy and urban management in Dakar. The area, once emblematic of Senegal’s prestige and international influence, now illustrates the social, economic and administrative challenges that are hampering its development. If no corrective measures are put in place, Almadies risks permanently losing its status as a flagship district of the capital.
Zaynab Sangarè
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