Why you should discover Cilento, a natural alternative to the Amalfi Coast

To reach Cilento from the (too) famous Amalfi Coast, allow just over an hour’s drive. Arriving in the alleys ofAgropolian endearing coastal town in this region listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site for its “exceptional cultural landscapes”, you might think you’ve changed countries. Here, tourism remains essentially local and you won’t be charged €10 per hour to park.

Wedged between the Tyrrhenian Sea and the Lucanian Apennines, Cilento and its rugged terrain are home to Italy’s second largest National Park, with no fewer than 180,000 hectares of protected land. Miraculously preserved, its sparkling coastline and its hinterland covered in scrubland and forests also contain major cultural sites such as the ancient ruins of Paestum or the Charterhouse of Padula. As for gastronomy, the excellent local restaurants showcase the products of a land that inspired the famous “Mediterranean diet” of Dr. Ancel Keys.

Dream beaches with translucent waters

Bordered to the west and south by the Tyrrhenian Sea, Cilento has nearly 150 km of coastline of stunning beauty. From Paestum to Sapri, bays fringed with golden sand alternate with wild coves with clear waters and steep cliffs pierced with sea caves… There is something for everyone!

Some beaches are very easy to reach, such as the beautiful Baia di Trentova, near Agropoli. Others are a bit more worthwhile, such as those in the Costa degli Infreschi e della Masseta reserve, between Marina di Camerota and Scario, which can only be reached by coastal paths or by boat.

Around Santa Maria di Castellabate, Ascea or Pisciotta, the vast expanses of blond sand follow one another while towards Capo Palinuro, the coves fringed with vertiginous cliffs are the norm, as in the magnetic Baia del Buondormire. Everywhere, you can enjoy water with exceptional transparency, ideal for snorkeling or scuba diving.

A hinterland with magnificent landscapes

Just take the SS18 road, which crosses the interior of Cilento from one side to the other, to discover a world completely different from the coast. Here, the colour green dominates, from steep valleys to chubby mountains sometimes reaching almost 2,000 metres above sea level.

In some areas, there are real jungles made up of a thousand species that colonize hillsides and hills. A diversity that led UNESCO to classify part of the region as a “Biosphere Reserve” and “Geopark”. Luckily, many hiking trails, inherited from ancient mule tracks, still crisscross the countryside: make the most of them!

Water is everywhere, as in the sublime Oasi WWF delle Grotte del Bussento, in Morigerati, a natural site where a torrent rushes into a spectacular canyon. But also in the Oasi Cascate Capelli Di Venere, waterfalls that tumble through exuberant moss. Finally, the region is also rich in magical caves, such as those of Pertosa-Auletta or Castelcivita.

Ancient ruins, coastal fortresses and baroque wonders

Cilento has been inhabited by man since the Neolithic period, as evidenced by the remains of tools and human bones found in the caves of Capo Palinuro or the Costa della Masseta. A land of exchange between the Nuragic, Etruscan and Aegean worlds, it saw the arrival of Greek settlers from the 7th century onwards.^e century, founding Pixunte, Molpa and especially Poseidonia, which would become Paestum.

Its famous Hellenic temples can be discovered today with delight and even emotion. To the south, the remains of Elea (Velia), a brilliant colony created by the Phocaeans in 535 BC, are offered to archaeology fans. To the east, the immense charterhouse of San Lorenzo de Padula contains a sublime Baroque church, exceptional frescoes, a kitchen covered in ceramics and a monumental staircase. A few kilometres away, the early Christian baptistery of San Giovanni in Fonte is crossed by a rushing spring. On the coast, a string of towers and fortresses built by the Normans, Angevins and Aragonese still stand guard.

Authentic villages with a serene atmosphere

Clinging to rocky peaks or hidden in deep valleys, the villages of Cilento are not lacking in charm. Here, no shimmering colours on the walls but rough stone, sometimes lit up with an ochre or sienna wash. Long inhabited by intrepid sailors, Agropoli unfolds its network of staircase-like alleys at the foot of a powerful Angevin-Aragonese castle.

To the south, the village of Castellabate, perched over 300 m above the Tyrrhenian Sea, has been included in the prestigious list of most beautiful villages of Italy for its winding alleys and its watchtower castle. Further on, Pisciotta clings to a rocky peak but also extends to the seaside, in the fishermen’s district.

Set back from the coast, Camerota remains to be discovered, reminiscent of the fierce parish church Corsican. Overlooking the Diano Valley, Teggiano has no fewer than 13 churches, all with remarkable decorations. We must also mention the villages of Morigerati, Castelnuovo Cilento or Roscigno Vecchia, abandoned by its inhabitants at the beginning of the 20th century.^e century following an earthquake.

A model gastronomy

Rich in vegetables, fruits and legumes, the regional gastronomy inspired the American doctor Ancel Keys to create the famous “Mediterranean diet”, which has since been declared a World Heritage Site. Cilento is also located in the famous Blue Zone, where centenarians are more numerous than elsewhere.

But what really makes the region’s culinary wealth are its exceptional local products, often labeled “DOP” or “Presidio Slowfood”. We must, of course, mention the buffalo mozzarella from Campania, made in the plain of Paestum, as well as its derivatives such as the chocolate chip or the scamorza smoked; but also chickpeas from Cicerale, white artichokes from Pertosa, fusilli (local pasta) from Gioi or Felitto, olive oil from Cilento, anchovies from Menaica or white figs. The best way to taste these wonders? Sitting down at a table in a Farmhouse who strives to cultivate tradition; or visit producers to fill your suitcase with gourmet souvenirs.

---

Address book

WHERE TO STAY?

The region is vast and we strongly advise you to make several stops there so as not to make unnecessary trips.

Ancient Feudi Hotel

In a pretty inland village, not far from the Padula Charterhouse, this elegant establishment is housed in the former palace of the lords of Valle di Diano.

Ancient Feudi Hotel Str. S. Francesco, 2, 84039 Teggiano. Tel. : +39 0975 587 329.

Relais Pian delle Stare

Lost in the heart of nature, this charming address has beautiful rooms with sea views, a flower garden and a vast swimming pool with waterfall.

Relais Pian delle Starze, Contrada Monte di Luna, Locality Starza, 84059 Marina di Camerota. Tel. : +39 0974 932 350.

WHERE TO EAT?

From Zero

Born in Cilento, this chef’s pizzeria has spread to several large Italian cities. The menu offers delicious pizzas garnished with local products such as Menaica anchovies. Meal approx. €20.

From Zero, Via Angelo Rubino, 1, 84078 Vallo della Lucania. Tel.: +39 0974 717 387.

Old Saracen – Carola 1801

Certified Slow Food, this restaurant likes to cultivate local tradition while not holding back from reinterpreting it. The seafood dishes are absolutely delicious! Expect to pay around €40.

Old Saracen – Carola 1801 Via Granatelle, 18, 84043 Agropoli. Tel. : +39 3881 189 340.

Good grief

In a dream setting between sea and century-old olive trees, this gourmet inn specializing in meat cooked on the embers also has a taste for good bottles. Dinner from €30 to €35.

Good grief Contrada Marina Campagna, 5, 84066 Pisciotta.

Isca of the Women

Cet Farmhouse which produces wine, olive oil and vegetables is the ideal place to taste rustic, generous and healthy cuisine. Full menu approx. €40, wine included.

Isca of the Women, Locality Isca delle Donne, 84064 Palinuro. Tel.: +39 0974 931 826.

WHERE TO FILL YOUR BASKET WITH EXCEPTIONAL PRODUCTS?

The San Salvatore Pantry

This farm which produces mozzarella, vin et légumes had the good idea to open a gourmet counter. Taste the buffalo milk ice cream!

The San Salvatore Pantry, State Road 18 Tirrena Inferiore, Locality Cafasso, 5, 84047 Capaccio Paestum. Tel.: +39 0828 199 8888.

Bread Stories

A bakery-grocery store renowned throughout the region for its naturally leavened breads, focaccias and its expert selection of local products.

Stories of Bread, Via Angelo Rubino, 1, 84078 Vallo della Lucania. Tel.: +39 0974 187 0716.

The Amaro House Pantry

A grocery store-wine bar that allows you to fill your basket and taste a local wine, to accompany a platter of local cold meats and cheeses.

The Amaro House Pantry Piazza S. Cono, 84039 Teggiano. Tel. : +39 3664 620 136.

TOURIST INFORMATION

Cilento, Vallo di Diano and Alburni National Park

Italia.it