“Hunger, thirst too”. This is what clearly expresses what this restaurant in Old Montpellier promises to satisfy. Like most of the addresses populating the Ecusson (the historic district of the city), this place seduces first by a majestic vaulted ceiling that can be seen in the background – a relic of a rich medieval past, here rejuvenated by a ribbon of light elegantly sweeping the long dining room. Bistro furniture, long zinc and shelves filled with bottles of all kinds (from natural sparkling wine to red wine to orange) also encourage you to push open the door of the establishment that was barely born (in February) but already large “friends’ counter”.
Anthony Calbo, 30, prepares between the bare stone walls of this 2.0 bistro a great cuisine served on small plates – the prerogative of trendy addresses. Earthenware dishes from another time welcome modern recipes straight out of the imagination of the Montpellier native, who once lived in Paris where he worked for Alessandro Candido, chef of Candide, a very beautiful Franco-Italian inn in Belleville.
Quesadilla with confit line-caught red tuna, melted cheeses, herb mayonnaise, sweet Basque peppers; seared black pudding, cherry sauce, mustard seed pickles, herb salad; chocolate mousse, black olive and peanut praline, olive oil and fleur de sel… Very pretty dishes, as boldly thought out as they are brilliantly executed, yet eclipsed by a beef tartare with dazzling seasoning.
Smoked Olive Oil Marinade
And with a very tender texture. “It is prepared with rump, a relatively lean piece, which is located on the shoulder bone of the animal, and which is cut up with a knife to keep a certain chewiness”, The chef first wants to clarify. Before revealing his secret: “Once cut into pieces, the meat is marinated in olive oil smoked with oak wood by Little Oak, a small family business specializing in smoking, located right next door, in Saint-Mathieu-de-Tréviers.”
It is also from her that the cook gets his smoked mussels, which accompany the raw meat with the help of a handful of pickled sweet onions from the Cévennes, as much grilled corn and a glossy sauce of roasted apricots, kimchi and chives. Dressed without fuss in the manner of those who order “unprepared” In traditional brasseries, this tartare stands out with its intense smoked notes, a play on textures made possible by the crunchiness of the corn kernels, and the uniqueness of a sweet and sour juice that can only really be enjoyed with plenty of bread… until you’re no longer hungry.
Beef tartare, smoked mussels, apricot sauce and grilled corn: €16. Faim, 13, rue Eugène-Lisbonne, Montpellier (Hérault). Open from Thursday to Saturday for lunch, and from Tuesday to Saturday for dinner. Tel.: 09-55-95-05-27.
Read also | At Amar Café in Sète, “raw sardines reveal an intense taste underlined by the tangy sweetness of a carrot vinaigrette”
Add to your selections
