A getaway to the Alpilles or the Luberon? Villages, landscapes, good addresses… Everything you need to know to decide between them

Close to Arles, Avignon, Aix-en-Provence and, to a lesser extent, Marseille, the Alpilles and the Luberon attract visitors in the summer. So, apart from the Durance, what separates them? Largely planted with vines and olive trees, the landscapes of the Alpilles are shaped by man. Between the plains of the Rhône, the Durance and the Crau, this massif resembles an island with a modest high point, the Opies tower, 500 meters above sea level, between Eyguières and Aureille. Much more extensive, the long ridge of the Luberon runs for nearly 75 kilometers between Cavaillon, in the Vaucluse, and Forcalquier in the Alpes-de-Haute-Provence. The Lourmarin valley separates the Petit Luberon, to the west, from the Grand Luberon to the east which flirts with 1100 meters at Mourre Nègre. The scene thus set, a review of the assets which distinguish these very famous Mediterranean reliefs.

Must-see visits: Saint-Rémy-de-Provence or Lourmarin?

Alpilles and Luberon are dotted with picturesque villages. In the first massif, however, one should be wary of Beautiful of Provence whose extraordinary site, a rocky spur where the ruins of a castle levitate, is striking from afar. In the village, it is difficult to appreciate its few historic buildings and its partly troglodyte church while hordes of tourists storm its perched streets lined with souvenir shops, restaurants and ice cream parlors. For a beautiful, truly inhabited and lively village in the Alpilles, we are betting on Saint-Remy-de-Provence (Wednesday market day is even better) taking care to explore Saint-Paul de Mausole, the asylum where Van Gogh was interned, brilliantly refurbished this summer with period furniture. Perhaps less photogenic but authentic, Maussane-les-Alpilles, Saint-Etienne of the Sandstone, Eygalières or the Paradou always have an effect with their church and their squares shaded by large trees.

With a very large territory and many precious villages, the Luberon has a head start. South side: Lourmarin and its alleys winding around a hill; Cucuron and its large basin framed by century-old plane trees. On the northern slope, the hilltop villages of Bonnieux, Lacoste, Menerbes, Old Oppede are close enough to compare their steep cobblestone streets, their old churches or chapels, the romantic ruins of their castles or ramparts. Opposite, Gordesalthough located in the Monts de Vaucluse, has become the figurehead of the chic villages of the Luberon (it is part of the eponymous regional natural park). Crazy allure on its rock, stone houses cascading between pines and cypresses, sumptuous view, luxury accommodation… and a large attendance in season. Shall we continue? Further east, Roussillon flamboie, Saignon Levite and One inspire…

Cultural sites: Glanum or medieval castles?

In a tight perimeter, the Alpilles align cultural nuggets. The Carrières de Lumières, which have sown their concept of immersive and digital exhibitions from Seoul to New York, enjoy here a striking setting with immense volumes and enveloping freshness. This summer, “Egypt of the Pharaohs” and “The Orientalists” are in the spotlight. A little further, hidden in a valley of the massif, the archaeological site of Glanum remains exceptional while its sacred source (still visible) is at the origin of the foundation of a Gallic then Roman city. Other moving ancient remains lost in the countryside near Fontvieille : the old stones of the Roman aqueduct supplying Arles and those of the Barbegal hydraulic mill.

There are more examples of medieval or modern castles that watched over Provençal villages in the Luberon. On the southern slope, you can visit the Ansouis castlethe only one to have always been inhabited, or that of Lourmarinthe first Renaissance palace in Provence. The Tour d’Aigues castle is perhaps the most surprising: inspired by the Louvre, it was the most beautiful in the region before the ravages of a fire and the revolution. The entrance gate and two monumental corner towers remain, as well as a curiosity: theBonde ponda few kilometers to the northwest, dug near springs to feed the moats and which became an unusual emerald body of water in the heart of the Luberon.

In the north of the massif, two sites will also appeal to art lovers. Bonnieuxthe Blachère Foundation exhibits the contemporary African scene while Gargasthe Mathieu chandelier factory, which manufactures and restores exceptional lighting fixtures (Versailles in particular), is opening its goldsmith workshops and museum to the public.

The landscapes: limestone lacework and olive groves or forests and flamboyant ochres?

In the Baux-de-Provence Valleyit is difficult not to marvel at the silvery olive groves billowing at the foot of the limestone reliefs. In the plains, the well-combed vines, the fruit orchards separated by windbreak hedges and the meadows where flocks of sheep and goats graze have everything of a postcard. Wilder, the limestone ridges cut into valleys offer delightful hiking or horse riding trails, mountain bike routes and climbing routes. For lovers of mountain biking (VTC), beautiful circuits for the day or over several days invite you to a sporty discovery.

More extensive, the Luberon wins for the diversity of its landscapes. From the rock faces of Buoux to the cedar forest of the Petit Luberon (planted in the 19th century), from the dry lawns of the Grand Luberon marked by Alpine influences to the gorges of Regalon in the south or Oppedette in the north, the mosaic of scenery is impressive. Here too, hiking and cycling are good options for an in-depth discovery of the natural treasures. Finally, one of the most remarkable landscapes of the massif is that of its ochre formations, with sharp edges and flamboyant color. Designated under the name of Colorado provençalthe old quarries of Rustrel, near Apt, very visited, are now accessible by reservation in summer (coloradoprovencal.fr). This geological curiosity can also be observed at Gargas (Bruoux mines) and Roussillon (ochre trail) with more confidential attendance.

Also readOur advice for touring the Luberon by bike

Tables to remember

IN THE ALPILLES:

Bistrot Almost

After enchanting the taste buds of Saint-Rémy with Edù, Edouard Giribone is doing it again in Eygalières with his partner Louis Villard. Mediterranean cuisine to share, like this hake carpaccio or grilled sardines accompanied by polenta. And also thin-crust pizzas, golden panisses… Plates from €8-10.

Bistro Quasi, 89 rue de la République, 13810 Eygalières. Tel.: 04 90 20 03 13

The Saint-Rémy Inn

Crowned with a star, the address of chef Fanny Rey is a sure bet with a strong iodized imprint… and vegetal, where the terroir of the Alpilles is expressed. Her companion Jonathan Wahid signs exquisite desserts. The address also includes 10 recently renovated rooms. Menus: €150 (lunch) and €200 (dinner).

The Saint-Rémy inn, 12 boulevard Mirabeau, 13210 Saint-Rémy-de-Provence. Tel.: 04 90 92 15 33

IN THE LUBERON:

The Gaudina Luberon

A no-frills restaurant with excellent value for money and essentials of French cuisine: bone marrow with garlic and parsley, Gordes beef confit parmentier, peach depending on availability… A sign? Christophe Bacquié, who has just been awarded 2 stars for his table d’hôtes at Mas Les Eydins in Bonnieux, highly recommends them. Starters from €6; main courses between €9 and €32. Single 4-course menu at €49 in the evening.

La Gaudina Luberon Quartier pieds rousset sud, 84220 Goult. Tel.: 06 40 89 34 32.

The taste of Happiness – La Fenière

The world’s first Michelin-starred chef to offer exclusively gluten-free cuisine, Nadia Sammut composes her menu around plant and marine materials only. On the outskirts of Lourmarin, people come to her chic inn to enjoy a unique culinary experience, visit the vegetable garden, and meet the chef and her team of “nourishers”. The address also has a brasserie and eleven rooms with beautiful, simple decor. Single menu: €90 or €130 (lunch); €160 (dinner).

The taste of happiness – La Feniere, 1680 Route de Loumarin, 84160 Cadenet. Tel.: 04 90 68 11 79.

Also readFrom the Luberon to the Alpilles, our best restaurants in the Provençal region

Luxury accommodation to fall in love with

IN THE LUBERON:

Capelongue

Perched on a rocky promontory facing the village of Bonnieux, this exclusive retreat has just been renovated to offer 57 rooms and a spa. Mediterranean and refined decoration with warm colors, local materials such as terracotta and wicker. Two swimming pools and three restaurants (including a Michelin star) encourage you to relax at the hotel. From €450 for a double room with breakfast.

Capelongue, Les Clarapèdes, 550 chemin des cabanes, 84480 Bonnieux. Tel.: 04 79 33 01 04.

Also readStone country house, chic inn, 18th century castle… Top 10 of the most beautiful hotels in Vaucluse

IN THE ALPILLES:

The Alpilles castle

At the end of a glorious avenue of century-old plane trees, an exclusive and intimate address of 21 keys housed in a 19th century mansion and its outbuildings. Period rooms in the main house or more contemporary in the farmhouse, the chapel or the washhouse. The lush 7-hectare park has a swimming pool and a tennis court. Two restaurants and a spa. From €255 for a double room. Breakfast: €26.

The Alpilles castle, Rougadou road, 13210 Saint-Rémy-de-Provence. Tel.: 04 90 92 03 33.

Also readFrom Saint-Rémy-de-Provence to the Baux Valley, our top 10 of the most beautiful hotels in the Alpilles

Alpilles or Luberon? The result of the match

A draw and a little unbalanced while the size of the Luberon gives him more opportunities to score. Lovers of perched and chic villages will undoubtedly be delighted by this massif. In the Alpilles where everything is close, we appreciate the possibility of combining cultural visits and activities in the great outdoors in one day, without forgetting a major asset, the proximity of the sea to escape the summer heat.