“Exhaustion is not only moral, it is also physical”: the organic winegrowers of Lot-et-Garonne battered by the climate

It has become a tradition, but above all one of the rare times of exchange of the year: tasting the new vintage of organic viticulture from Lot-et-Garonne. This year, to celebrate its distinction in the famous Hachette Wine Guide, it was Sandrine Annibal from Domaine de Lancement who welcomed the Lot-et-Garonnais winegrowers – and their bottles. Despite the joy of coming together to compare products and blends of grape varieties, a strange atmosphere reigns above the department's organic estates.

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“The main thing is that there is exhaustion,” reveals Jacques Réjalot, the dean of winegrowers within this brotherhood of organic winegrowers. The man who was one of the pioneers with the Pichon estate is, like his colleagues, dependent on a climate that continues to oscillate. “After the drought of 2023, we are looking at a really strange year 2024, the opposite,” comments the professional. Abundant precipitation, mildew but also insects – “an increase in August”, just before the harvest – disrupted the development of the vines.

Grubbing campaign: “We are going to lose our wine heritage”

“We must always be ready to get on the tractor,” breathes Sandrine Annibal, the winemaker from Thézac. “Exhaustion is not only moral, it is also physical.” Intervene as soon as the disease appears; you must constantly be on the lookout. At his side, Rémy Delouvrié (Domaine de Quissat), Audrey Chassenard (Domaine de Salisquet), David Sazi (Domaine de Courège-Longue) but also a fellow independent winemaker – but not yet completely organic – Matthieu Tylski (Mas de la Borde High) share the same observation. Grape varieties that have not reached maturity, like David Sazi who “fought to have merlot”, as best he could, and who is considering switching to cabernet franc. Pulling up vines is in the spirit of the times. The State has launched a vast vine uprooting plan to reduce the size of French vineyards.

A decision which is not to the taste of Jacques Réjalot. “The problem is that we are going to pluck blindly. Some vines are 70, 80 years old. We have to save them, otherwise we will lose an entire wine heritage.” If they can only note the national trend of a drop in consumption, organic wine growers urge local players to “play the game”. “Restaurateurs must not take the easy route, and introduce independents” breathes David Sazi. Despite the headwinds, the organic winegrowers of Lot-et-Garonne are staying the course.