the Maroni at its lowest, the canoes and the goods paralyzed

“The canoe is only 30 cm from the bottom », says Ronaldo Mekou, his eyes fixed on the water. Around us, rock piles and sandbanks, hindering navigation. “Before, everything was covered in water, today we see rocks that we had never seen before”worries the canoeist.

Guyana is facing an unprecedented drought with temperatures around 40 degrees and rain looming. After 18 months of rainfall deficit, the low water level of the Maroni has reached a historically low level.
A few tens of minutes of navigation from Papaichton, the canoeist lands us on an islet of rocks in the middle of the river, a place usually covered with water. On the ground, the earth is cracked, dried out, like a desert and not a river. In the sky, the sun burns, the heat is stifling. In the memory of elders, it has been more than 20 years since the water level has been this low.

« At this same time last year, the canoes passed between Papaichton and Maripasoula, remembers Ronaldo Mekou, canoeist, but currently everything is at a standstill. » Since the beginning of 2024, the flow of the Maroni has always remained below seasonal norms, according to the hydrological monitoring unit of Guyana.

“I left the last canoe from Saint Laurent three weeks ago,” recalls Raymond, a transporter from Maripasoula. She had to stop at Grand Santi, she couldn't go any further, it was too dangerous. Everything was unloaded and distributed into smaller canoes.”

Two weeks ago, the last canoes which linked Saint-Laurent to Papaïchton took eight days instead of a day and a half in normal times.
“Those who still have the courage to try to reach Papaichton organize rotations with small canoes and less loading,” explains Ronaldo Mekou, canoeist in Papaïchton. We left a few days ago with four barrels of fuel, instead of 27 normally. Despite everything, we had difficulty transporting them here.”

Small boats also consume more fuel with longer and more technical journeys. In addition to the additional costs, there are the risks involved for the canoeists. “The crew had to compensate for the difficulties of the engine, it took a lot of effort to take too many risks,” adds Ronaldo Mekou. Sad demonstration: leaving Maripasoula, a boat loaded with goods capsized two weeks ago. The video went viral on social media.

Faced with the danger, transporters threw in the towel. No more canoes circulate from Saint-Laurent to Maripasoula and to the villages of Haut-Maroni. “Too much risk and no benefit, fortunately I have another activity on the side otherwise it was guaranteed death,” breathes Jonathan Abienso, river transporter.

“I have more than 300 tonnes of goods stuck in Saint-Laurent,” he laments. Generally the end of the year is a big period of activity, customers stock up to get a good start to the following year. This river carrier estimates losing nearly 30% of its annual turnover, or 100,000 euros. “The loss of business is enormous for a small business like mine.”

Even more worrying: “Usually, we adapt to the dry season because it doesn't last. This time, we clearly understood that it was going to last and it is a disaster for the inhabitants of Maripasoula and the river communities”adds Jonathan Abienso, river transporter.

Next year, he plans to offer these customers the opportunity to increase stocks before the dry season. “But it’s not a foregone conclusion because they will need cash,” he adds.

In Papaichton, a trader explains that she has stopped all orders. “I’m not going to buy goods without being sure I can transport them,” comments Joyce Telon who usually orders three tons of goods every two months. From the counter of her supermarket located on the banks of the Maroni, she confirms having never seen the water level so low.

Everywhere else, goods are becoming scarce in the shelves of the mini markets of Maripasoula and Papaïchton. The few products still available are selling at a high price: 100 euros for a gas bottle, 18 euros for a pack of water or even 30 euros for a 5 kilo bag of rice. On the opposite bank, in Suriname, prices have also skyrocketed.

In the meantime, air freight has increased its transport capacity, but its price remains higher than river transport. It costs 0.65 cents to transport a kilo of goods by canoe compared to approximately double that by plane.

For its part, the State launched the ORSEC water plan on October 31. And the prefecture announced that it would strengthen resources this Thursday. Three Casa planes from the army will now transport foodstuffs to the communities on the river, including isolated communities in the East because the Oyapock is also affected.

In Papaïchton, two civil security agents have just arrived to identify the population's needs for water, gas and basic necessities. Other teams are also deployed in Grand Santi and Maripasoula. They will then have to control the prices charged in these municipalities. The goods will then be transported accordingly, promises the State.

An emergency solution to help residents in the coming days. But what will be the medium-term solutions? Météo France Guyane is already announcing a rainfall deficit for the entire month of November. Some forecasters even estimate that it could last until December.