Bastien and his family © GP
Bastien Djait? The gourmet sensation of the moment to be discovered on the border of the 9th and 10th, rue d’Abbeville on the road to the Gare de l’Est or du Nord. This young chef (26 years old) formerly of Jean-Luc Rocha at the Saint-James avenue Bugeaud, of Thierry Marx at the Mandarin Oriental where he met Mory Sacko who enlisted him in the Mosuke adventure and at the Plaza Athénée with Jean Imbert, Jocelyn Herland, Mathieu Emeraud, where he tries his hand at all the positions in the various catering offers of the place (Relais Plaza, Cour Jardin, JI au PA) opened his first table with his partner, the no less young Charles Taravel, 28 years, plus the director-sommelier Dimitri Roussel, 24, who worked for Tout Paris. On the program, creative finesse, multiple pleasures and brain juice.
Amuse-bouche © GP
If the place appears “roughly rough” as the sign seems to indicate, it appears elegant and refined with its tables, certainly without tablecloths but neat, the kitchen visible behind the glass, the dessert counter in the middle of the room. The menus, which increase in number of dishes and prices, wisely start with a lunch menu at €29. The appetizers immediately seduce in a light and fresh way, with the Umeboshi Mirabelle plum tartlet and watercress condiment.
The carrot © GP
Then we start in the same mode with the raw cucumber spaghetti according to a recipe by Fernande Allard, with nettle chlorophyll, nasturtiums and a cucumber elixir. Then we approach the richer mode, but barely, and tasty , green lentils, with their creamy sweet Cévennes onions like a soup. One of the highlights of the meal? Carrot marinated in olive oil with morel (harvested in June) macerated in yellow wine.
Lentils and sweet onions © GP
But the cod steamed with sea water, with seaweed (salicorn, sea samphire and wild fennel) and butter, white linked to the cod shell, plus Sologne caviar, also makes a great fresh, lively, iodized moment. which knows how to play the classic with clarity, and which is complemented by flame-cooked mackerel, XO condiment and garum. All that remains is Arnaud Tauzin’s Landes poultry, the supreme cooked at low temperature in an ear of corn, the thighs marinated in camelina, roasted in tarragon butter, with creamy corn, burnt corn in vinegar, chicken sauce and juice. of poultry is also a great moment.
Cod and white butter with caviar © GP
With all this, sommelier Dimitri Roussel lets you discover the favorite wines of the moment: very dry Tellier “Les Massales” 2020 champagne, barely dosed, strong in pinot meunier, lively and rare sauvignon from Saint-Bris in northern Bourogne, near Auxerre and Chabls from Domaine Fontaine Goby 2022 or even impeccable and very charming semi-dry Vouvray from Domaine Foreau 2022 which fits very well with sweets, such as the exquisite pear poached with sorrel with its pear compote, its sumac and cream cheese crumble, sorrel syrup.
Poultry by Arnaud Tauzin © GP
A downside for the hazelnut, a little too rich with its hazelnut cream, reminiscent of artisanal “Nutella”, its fresh hazelnuts, its red wine sauce. But his arlette made with kouign amann is very crunchy, like a nod to the Breton origins of the chef’s mother. The roasted barley which replaces coffee here (a bias prevents the young team from serving “extra French” products) also comes from Brittany. In, in finethe pear and green shiso fruit paste obviously makes a very digestible little treat. This is, clearly, a leader to follow and a house with a future!
The pear © GP
Raw House
18 Rue d’Abbeville
Paris 9e
Such. : 09 83 95 96 01
Weekly closing. : Sun., Monday.
Menus: 29 (lunch, formula), 38 (lunch), €65.95.
Metro: Poissonnière
Site : www.maisonbrutparis.fr
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