Dangerous Brazilian straightening: how Cahors hairdressers are adapting

Bad news for hairdressers. The National Health Safety Agency warned on Wednesday October 16 against glyoxylic acid, a chemical agent used in Brazilian straightening products. A hair care technique that aims to inject keratin into the hair before straightening it. The Ministry of Health also advises against this treatment after the case of four cases of kidney failure. At Racine en tête, in Cahors, Magalie Pradal-Cazard, the manager, offers this service. She has not yet looked at the composition of her treatment product. We read the composition with her and quickly, on the first line, her finger stumbles on “Glyoxyloyl”. And thin. “Anyway, everything we use is toxic, especially for colors and bleaching. Unfortunately, we are used to it,” the hairdresser resigns. To avoid the spread of these toxic products as much as possible, it relies on ventilation and the use of gloves. It’s okay that in her salon, Brazilian straightenings are not commonplace…

The manager only makes between 6 and 7 per year. It must be said that the service is expensive: count at least 300 euros. In fact, since Covid, the hairdresser has had half as many requests for colors. “It’s linked to the budget of course, customers are cutting back on this pleasure item, they are more and more suspicious of the products used and then, since confinement, they have gotten into the habit of keeping their natural color”, she explains. The frequency has also evolved: “Before, clients came back for color every month and a half, now, for reasons of economy, they wait four months.” Before, not a day went by at the salon without his team creating a color. Today, several days can pass without color. This Friday, Magalie, a loyal customer, came to revive her blonde locks. “I trust the hairdresser, it seems to me that the highlights are less damaging than color,” she assures.

Bleeding nose and burning throat

Still on the boulevard, at Hair and Manner, Gaelle Delalane Sicard has ensured for five years now that her products contain fewer toxic molecules. She changed all her ranges: “At that time I was seen as a UFO in the profession. I have since used ammonia-free, sulfate-free and vegan treatments.” Because about fifteen years ago, the hairdresser had allergic reactions and sometimes observed eczema. In the morning, she sometimes had a bloody nose and during the day, her throat burned because of the strong odor of ammonia. At the salon, the instructions for use have changed drastically. “We systematically use gloves for shampooing, which had never been recommended before by the health authorities,” she remembers.

Since then, the boss has never had any allergies or eczema. For Brazilian straightening, she read the composition as soon as she learned. She is reassured: “No trace of this molecule in my products. My suppliers sent me an email on Wednesday to notify me.” Finally, it should also be mentioned that some hairdressers have chosen not to practice Brazilian straightening, out of conviction. This is the case for Christophe Vaurs: “It’s something that I don’t feel, it transforms the hair, it becomes lifeless, we end up with drumsticks. I prefer the naturalness of the waves.” Enough to cut it short.