An ambitious restaurant
It is in one of the superb lounges of this listed hotel dating from the Belle Époque that the very chic Palais Royal is located, which can accommodate up to 28 guests.
David Martin put together a high-level team, including two very young executive chefs: Jean Kaczmarek, who was second to the three-star Alexandre Mazzia in Marseille, and Lucas Heris-Mertens, who was sous chef for two years and half to Peace. While in the gym, he can count on Tineke Struye, who spent many years at the late Pure C** of Syrco Bakker. The new brigade spent six months at La Paix to learn the philosophy of David Martin and create the dishes served here.
On the plate, however, there is no question of doing as at Peace, nor even of sticking to the classic decor. “The framework is that of Peace, with a gourmet aim, but the inspirations are broader and the cuisine is more spicy. Jean also brings a new vision, having worked with Mazzia. I don’t want customers to eat here what that they can eat elsewhere. I’m a writer, not just a performer.” explains the two-star chef.
Uninhibited and identity-based cuisine
Here, no crab soup with coffee or lemon with caviar – two signature dishes of La Paix – but new creations. Although Martin will sometimes reuse an element in a different way, like this wonderful spinach-hibiscus sauce that he serves with king crab in his two stars and which he has transformed here into a stunning vegetable dish, with chicory cooked on the Japanese binchotan barbecue.
Or this beetroot sauce, combined with eel butter and smoked mackerel on a veal steak, with creamy sparassis and a grapefruit condiment. While he also offers a surprising and impactful dish, hot oysters, like pepper steak.
-“Certain dishes will shake customers. We take risks. When there is no longer any risk-taking, there is no light, there is no spark, it’s over. We cooks a 21st century palace. It’s not a museum!” pleads the leader.
At the Palais Royal, we are indeed far from the sanitized cuisine of certain palaces. David Martin’s dishes are daring, even if they don’t please everyone. And we won’t soon forget them!
Palais Royal, 103 rue Royale, 1000 Brussels. Open Tuesday to Saturday evening, except Saturday lunchtime. Lunch menu (€85/7 serves), Menu (10 serves. €135; 12 serves. €175) or à la carte (€70-180 main course, €25 dessert). https ://palaisroyal. brussels/
