In Paris, couture is delicate at Giambattista Valli, phantasmagorical at Charles de Vilmorin

In Paris, couture is delicate at Giambattista Valli, phantasmagorical at Charles de Vilmorin
In Paris, couture is delicate at Giambattista Valli, phantasmagorical at Charles de Vilmorin

The Haute Couture Week dedicated to the collections for fall-winter 2024/25 showed, during the first days, the most sophisticated and ethereal creations, as at Giambattista Valli, who was inspired by flowers and India, or Charles de Vilmorin in a more theatrical register of a fairy tale with a bit of drama.

See the parade
Giambattista Valli, new season 2024/25 – ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

It was an unexpected collection that Giambattista Valli unveiled on Monday evening, more stripped down than usual, with tulle and chiffon dresses, mainly monochrome, centered around two strong themes. The flowers and a palette of vibrant hues, golden yellow, saffron, ruby, fuchsia, purple, periwinkle, Mayan blue, etc.

“I love colors, whose scent we can breathe, as if the flower or fruit had just been picked. The rose which is fresh, the tangerine, the marigold, which brings this ray of sunshine from the Far East”, slips the Italian couturier, who wanted to bring two cultures into dialogue in his collection, that of Mughal Indian miniatures with their lush gardens and botanical details, and that of the Italian Renaissance with the paintings of Sandro Botticelli, including the famous “Spring” with its orange trees in bloom and the goddess Flora dressed in a dress covered with flowers.

Delicate petals rest on the faces and bodies of the models, while flowers explode on all sides, from peonies growing on a bodysuit to pink organza carnations unfolding on a bustier until they completely cover it. Further on, a dress is entirely embroidered with petals. A marigold garland fits into a white tulle bridal outfit. Cornflowers are scattered across a strapless dress. The designer also offers sinuous hooded dresses in light chiffon, enriched with floral bouquets.

To accompany the models, the house invited two Indian musicians playing live with a sitar and a bansuri flute. “At this moment of great political, historical and economic confusion, I wanted to launch a message of dialogue, like a door to the future, through this conversation between two cultures, involving listening and exchange,” concludes Giambattista Valli.

See the parade
Charles De Vilmorin, fall-winter 2024/25 – ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

Absent in January, Charles de Vilmorin, who launched his ready-to-wear line last season, returns to parade on the Haute Couture catwalks with a phantasmagorical and spectacular collection. Tale or nightmare? Grotesque figures, strange animals, disturbing or magical characters cross the scene bathed in red light. They look like they came straight out of a Tim Burton movie, such as Funeral riteswith the bride clutching a bouquet of charred cardoons, accompanied by her young bride in a romantic ruffled shirt.

Black or red, cut from masculine fabrics or taffeta, the long evening dresses hug the body, closed in the back with corset-style laces and ending in a long train. The sleeves are sewn partly along the sides of the garment, hindering movement, while volutes of feathers stand on the shoulders or on the head. A red silk set embroidered with purple sequins is edged with ostrich feathers. Boned dresses cut from sumptuous jacquard fabrics are worn with capes for a princess look. A voluminous parachute dress seems made directly from crumpled paper.

“I wanted to use my know-how, this time, to translate my drawings in other ways than in print”, tells us Charles de Vilmorin backstage, known for his universe arty and his surreal illustrations. Thus, sequins are embroidered in an arabesque, using the designer’s typical motifs. With feathers, oversized headdresses, embroidery and three-dimensional decorative elements, the collection takes on volume.

Red and black feathers rise high on the back of a black dress. A top hat extends in loops and spirals all around the head, including a monocle in front of one eye. Elsewhere, these curved lines stand as a screen in front of a naked silhouette, while a giant parasol-shaped hat hides the model’s head behind long fringes.

During the fashion show, the designer notably unveiled two models of shoes decorated with his designs – a pair of boots and strappy babies, which he made with the Carel house.

All rights of reproduction and representation reserved.
© 2024 FashionNetwork.com

-

-

PREV Essonne: a dog beaten to death during a house burglary?
NEXT Diamond wedding of the Pineau couple in Colombiers