Japanese houses Issey Miyake and Yohji Yamamoto unveiled their fall-winter 2025-2026 men’s collections in Paris on Thursday with two completely opposite lines but a good dose of comfort each time.
Issey Miyake presented its IM Men line for the first time. Created in 2021 and led by three members of the Miyake Design Studio at the head of the Griffe (Sen Kawahara, Yuki Itakura and Nobutaka Kobayashi), it succeeds the brand Plus, hitherto favored by the Japanese house to parade in the capital fashion.
In the almost monacal atmosphere of the Cordeliers refectory, an old convent entirely redecorated in white for the occasion, the first models set off, all dressed in white, in large outfits seeming to have been cut in one room, taking up the Concept “A Piece of Cloth” (only one piece of fabric) by Issey Miyake.
All to the rhythm of the movement of immense black panels guided by mechanical arms, illustrating the will of the claw to integrate design and technology in its creations.
Gradually, white has given way to classic autumn colors to slide towards a more intense palette, with fir green, red pulling on rust or denim blue, to finish on bright colors such as purple, orange orange or yellow.
From the trench to the blouse via the saruel pants, the cloakroom Im Men wants to be flexible and comfortable.
The claw has also made sure that no one takes cold, with large hoods, integrated scarf cups, huge plastron passes or even pants.
-The parade concluded on an aerial choreography, the models rushing through the building after having transformed their jacket into a cape, as if to put into practice the theme of this show baptized “Fly with IM Men” (“Vol with IM Men).
Conversely, no color or fluidity in Yohji Yamamoto, which presented a much darker collection but which seemed just as comfortable, if not anymore.
The 81 -year -old Japanese has scrolled through his Parisian premises silhouettes of all ages, dressed in oversized quilted coats, sometimes reversible, open to thick shirts. All matched with equally imposing pants, which sometimes overlapped Bermudas.
On the palette side, the creator has gone from one extreme to another, firstly offering dark colors, faithful to his nickname “black poet”, to conclude on futuristic outfits of an immaculate white and associated with An intense black.
The American Rick Owens, for his part, recalled why he had made a name for himself as the main creator of Gothic and grunge clothing, with black and loose coats in raw or leather wool, shorts associated with boots at platform or long hooded white wool chasubles.
mdv-jz/by the/jp
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