Paris Fashion Week | Comfort in the spotlight at Miyake and Yamamoto

(Paris) The Japanese houses Issey Miyake and Yohji Yamamoto unveiled their fall-winter 2025-2026 men’s collections on Thursday in Paris, with two completely opposite lines, but a good dose of comfort each time.

Issey Miyake presented his IM Men line for the first time at Paris Fashion Week. Created in 2021 and managed by three members of the Miyake Design Studio at the head of the label (Sen Kawahara, Yuki Itakura and Nobutaka Kobayashi), it succeeds the Homme Plissé brand, until now favored by the Japanese house to parade in the capital fashion.

In the almost monastic atmosphere of the Réfectoire des Cordeliers, a former convent entirely redecorated in white for the occasion, the first models set out, dressed all in white, in loose outfits seeming to have been cut from a single piece, taking up the concept ” a piece of cloth » (a single piece of fabric) by Issey Miyake.

All to the rhythm of the movement of immense black panels guided by mechanical arms, illustrating the brand’s desire to integrate design and technology into its creations.

Gradually, white gave way to classic autumnal colors until sliding towards a more intense palette, with pine green, rusty red or denim blue, ending with vibrant colors such as purple, orange or yellow.

From the trench coat to the blouse and harem pants, the IM Men wardrobe is flexible and comfortable.

The brand has also ensured that no one gets cold, with large hoods, hats with integrated scarves, huge bib collars and even boot pants.

The show concluded with an aerial choreography, the models running through the building after transforming their jackets into capes, as if to put into practice the theme of this show called Fly with IM Men.

Conversely, there was no color or fluidity at Yohji Yamamoto, who presented a much darker collection, but which seemed just as comfortable, if not more so.

The 81-year-old Japanese man paraded figures of all ages through his Parisian premises, dressed in oversized quilted coats, sometimes reversible, open over thick shirts. All matched with equally imposing pants, which were sometimes superimposed with Bermuda shorts.

In terms of palette, the designer went from one extreme to the other, initially offering only dark colors, faithful to his nickname “black poet”, to conclude with futuristic outfits in immaculate white and associated with intense black.

The American Rick Owens, for his part, recalled why he made a name for himself as the main designer of gothic and grunge clothing, with loose black coats in raw wool or leather, shorts combined with boots platform or even long white wool chasubles with hoods.