Fine jewelry –
When Van Cleef & Arpels slips into the shoes of a pirate
The Parisian house has just launched the Treasure Island collection in Miami. A jewelry treasure. Back to the event.
Published today at 08:57
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Miami, 28 degrees in the shade. It is November 17th. In Geneva, the first snows are forecast. Some 150 hand-picked journalists from all over the world are present. Van Cleef & Arpels is preparing to unveil its new high jewelry collection, Treasure Island, inspired by the famous adventure novel by Robert Louis Stevenson, “Treasure Island,” first published in 1883.
For now, we’re stopping at Villa Lagorce, a luxurious private residence with a swimming pool on La Gorce Island, an island built in 1924 in Miami-Dade County. The place is full of works of art. Appearing to float on the water in the shade of a huge banyan tree, a set of characters in colored transparent resin, the Jelly family by Italian artist Mauro Perucchetti, watches over the shark-infested waters. An outdoor lunch will be served next door.
In the meantime, we have a meeting with three historians from the École des Arts Joailliers in Paris. It will be about famous jewelry chests, pirates and their real lives, far from the clichés notably conveyed by Stevenson’s story which, originally, was intended for children, and great treasures discovered – often by chance – at over the centuries. A morning full of lessons. The gala dinner will take place this evening, in another residence of historical prestige.
L’Italie made in Miami
The sun has gone. An avenue of candles lines the worn stone stairs. The ocean is there making itself heard, shrouded in the songs of tropical birds. In reality, this sound comes from speakers scattered throughout the lush nature. The real shore is just a stone’s throw away, at the end of the gigantic gardens leading to the villa. There is even talk of a mangrove frequented by crocodiles. We are in Vizcaya, in the very chic Coconut Grove neighborhood. But we suddenly feel transported to another world. The main building has everything of a 16th century Italian residence.
However, the whole place dates from 1916. They were once the second home of James Deering, industrialist and art collector. Passionate about boats, the man went so far as to have one built in stone. Signed Alexander Stirling Calder, an eminent sculptor of the late 19th century, it adorns Biscayne Bay, disturbed by the nocturnal ballet of flying fish. It is in this superb setting that “Iron Man 3”, “The Bodyguard” and “Ace Ventura” were filmed. In 1987, Villa Vizcaya was even the scene of the meeting between President Ronald Reagan and Pope John Paul II. As for James Deering and his brother Charles, they played a crucial role in the development of Miami. Now a public museum, the place is among the most visited in Miami.
Happy Tavern
The tables were set up in one of the villa’s living rooms. To access it, you go through the terrace then an interior courtyard lined with exotic vegetation and topped with a glass roof. Large glass arches decorated with marine decorations separate the two. And here we are under a three-masted ship suspended from the ceiling. He heads off, under full sail, towards the room where the appetizing aromas of dishes concocted by the three-star chef, Emmanuel Renaut, are already wafting.
This is when the journey begins. As a space-time tunnel: the pages of a giant book. We enter the tale. The real decorations are 3D illustrations. We are immersed in a cheerful tavern, at the foot of a galleon with lit windows. The pirates are at our gates and it is in a thunderous whirlwind that they arrive, singing at the top of their lungs, stamping their boots on the floor a thousand miles. The jewels will be revealed during a timeless parade. Pirates or naiads? Difficult to decide. Especially since in the room, what one would judge to be the song of the sirens resonates.
“The Treasure Island collection is divided into three chapters,” explains Catherine Rénier, the new CEO of Van Cleef & Arpels. With the first, we board a galleon, discovering the beauties of the ocean and the sea depths. The second pays homage to the flora and fauna of the Caribbean islands. And the third undoubtedly represents what we are all looking for, the treasure chest filled with colorful surprises gleaned from all around the world.
A clip, Palmier Mystérieux, alone symbolizes these three chapters. Illustrating an island planted with two palm trees with mysteriously set emerald leaves, it is accompanied by interchangeable decorations made of gold and precious stones; in the distance, a ship or the setting sun, but also a chest open with its precious contents. Elsewhere, marine knots, ropes and navigation instruments become muses. While a rich shades of blue translate the ocean against a backdrop of rare stones. Example with this necklace made up of large turquoise pearls alongside a yellow gold turtle and diamonds. The treasure, for its part, plays the diversity card. The horizon ranges from pre-Columbian splendors to the wonders of Asia. Have a good trip!
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Sylvie Lefebvre-Guerreiro has been editor-in-chief of Tribune des Arts magazine since 2021. Journalist with the same title since January 2000, she specializes in art, watchmaking and jewelry.More info
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