Why sparkling wine could save the Bordeaux vineyards from the doldrums

Francis Abeccassis is not the type to come to Bordeaux to peel garlic. This is evidenced by its establishment in two decades on the Cognac square, notably with its ABK6 brand and the acquisition of nearly 500 hectares to become one of the largest owners in the region. Here he is now a neighbor on the Place de Bordeaux with the purchase of 350 hectares in Entre-Deux-Mers and a project under his arm: making, in particular, sparkling wine. “I am already marketing a batch of 50,000 bottles which comes from my Charente vines, I have noticed that there is room between the champagne which is expensive and prosecco which I find to be of average quality overall”explains Francis Abecassis before adding: “I found a very beautiful terroir in Entre-Deux-Mers, I am starting with a white of blacks that is to say a white made from red grapes, namely merlot a you cabernet franc. For the moment I do not sell it under the category cremant ».

While we wait for Francis Abecassis’ bubbles at 15 euros to hit the market next January, what is the state of play in this category? “Sparkling is doing quite well, it is the weak ray of sunshine through the Bordeaux wine situation, but it represents very low volumes”underlines Dominique Furlan, president of the Louis Fallon cellar and representative for Bordeaux of the National Federation of Crémants Producers and Elaborators.

Bordeaux Crémant growing strongly

Over the last two harvests, the area dedicated to the production of Crémants de Bordeaux has doubled to reach more than 1,800 hectares. White Crémant represents almost 80% compared to its rosé counterpart. A good indicator, the output of bottles from the cellars exceeds the volume of the harvest. Demand is greater than supply, the bubble is on the rise. In one year, exports jumped by 40% in volume and 45% in value. It’s the Germans who love it the most. Denmark, the USA, Russia (via Latvia and Lithuania) and the United Kingdom follow. With an average price of €6.30, the value for money is applauded. Notwithstanding champagne, Crémant de Bordeaux is growing twice as fast as its competitors in the same sector (Burgundy, Alsace, Loire, etc.). Of which act.

So, in the four corners of Bordeaux, you just have to shake a tree to see a bottle of sparkling wine fall. Some have fun tinkering with a few bubbles in an iconoclastic approach, but above all some see it as an opportunity, a remedy to the crisis, a way to stand out. Oenologist Camille Lanyou, who runs Château Picoron in Castillon, remembers: “One evening of the 2021 harvest, I have a balance of juice too colorful to go in my rosé, I go ahead, I buy bottles, capsules and a capper, bottling takes place 10 days after the start of fermentation, in the rush I forgot to warn the owners Glenda and Frank who are confined to Sydney”. Results: the vintage called “I did, did I?” made from organic Merlot is born, for an annual production of 1,200 bottles, and the owners are delighted! At the other end of Bordeaux, in the north of the wine-growing Médoc, in Saint-Germain-d’Esteuil, Blandine and Jérémy Borde are among those winegrowers who are shaking up the codes with small, so-called garage vintages.

On the menu, natural wines with red but also white, orange and a natural sparkling wine. “We are in a land that produces more gastronomic wines so we were looking for something for an aperitif, the pet’ nat’ was born, a blanc de noirs from cabernet sauvignon this is our third campaign, we produce nearly 3,000 bottles per year”explains the couple who preside over the destiny of Château Peylaby. And this vintage has been emulated in the neighborhood, notably at Château Doyac, known for having been the first biodynamic Cru Bourgeois. In addition to the red and white vintages, a natural sparkling wine will be disgorged at the start of winter. “The name of the label will be a rebus, the musical note C and I will draw a yak: Doyac”confides Clémence de Pourtalès. The vintages pass through Bordeaux and are increasingly distinguished in a bubble of the Gironde estuary, the Quais des Chartrons and the Place de la Bourse.

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Our selection from 8.50 euros

The Round of Peylaby
Prix : 18 €

This organic little natural Cabernet de Sauvignon is built on minerality and this very fine sweetness-acidity balance. Measuring 10.5%, this Round is a very (very) happy discovery.

Louis Vallon Brut Nature
Prix : 11,80 €

This Crémant de Bordeaux is on white flowers and pear to offer a rich and fine bubble. We are enjoying very good freshness. The whole is balanced with a saline finish.

Château Picoron I did, did I ?
Prix : 12 €

This magnificent natural sparkling wine is a confidential cuvée made from Merlot, therefore a blanc de noirs with tangy raspberry. Its very beautiful vinous expression also allows it to stand on a meal.

Château Grand Jean Pur Grand Jean
Prix : 8,50 €

This brut Crémant de Bordeaux delivers delicate notes of bread crust and vine peaches to the nose. The attack on the palate is lively and seductive, all suspended from a beautiful aromatic complexity.

Bulles de Lisennes Rosé Brut
Prix : 8,50€

The crushed raspberry dominates the bouquet of red fruits for this lively and tense pink bubble. This Crémant de Bordeaux shows how Bordeaux grape varieties flourish in effervescence.

Château Lestrille Les Bulles
Prix : 13,50€

This raw and organic Crémant de Bordeaux with a strong Sémillon dominance juggles between flowers and touches of honey. The bubbles are fine and this cuvée has been designed with freshness in mind.